We were in Hunder the previous night. Nubra Valley is the more popular name I believe. A not so early morning led us to the Diksit Gompa first ( I’ve captured it all in my previous blog on this trip ). Thereafter, we were on our way to one of the more touristy sites in these parts, the Pangong Tso.
It was a very bright day alright, and hence our cameras were tucked in for the most part till we reached our destination for the day. The river Shyok was with us for quite some time, and it did afford us some nice views; just that the light was quite bright for any decent scenery to be captured. Moreover, we were pretty used to the ‘usual’ good views by now, and only the most enchanting of sights would attract our attention.
Or, an old enough woman ! She was clicked during our lunch stop at Durbuk, where we joined other tourists coming in from Leh.
Another one hour ride later, and when the sun was still quite a bit high up, we reacted in awe as the first ‘blue’ views of the lake presented itself in those otherwise desert-like surroundings. It was not long before our cameras came out too, and we spent the entire evening capturing various perspectives of this beautiful gem of a lake. Such awesome blues that we had never seen before; Incredible India indeed !
The wind started howling not soon after, and all of a sudden, it became very chilly as soon as the sun went down. We hurried inside one of the shops that was still open to serve hot food to the tourists ( read tea and maggi ! ). Refreshments done, there was nothing else to do in these parts but to wait for the night to get over. We once again hurried towards one of the basic rooms nearby that were to be our homes for the night. No fancy hotels and restaurants here, as not many tourists turn up to stay after sunset. The lake is at a height of 14000+ ft, and it gets quite cold when it gets dark. We’re witnesses !
While waiting for dinner to get ready, we braced ourselves once again to face the bitter cold wind howling outside. Our first stint at astro-photography was awaiting, if only we could get out of our rooms ! Decked up in all that was necessary to brave the icy cold weather, we came out with our cameras and tripods. My tripod being a light one, I had to hold it at times to keep it steady and standing in light of the windy onslaught.
All of us managed to get a few shots nevertheless. It was an experience that I would cherish forever, just as I would cherish the sky above Pangong that windy night !
Content after few decent captures and a hearty delicious dinner served by our affable hosts, we put to rest our excitement as well as ourselves. It was getting way colder and windy now, and all we could do is tuck inside our heavy blankets. The rooms looked basic but were pretty warm and air tight for the night. Not an iota of discomfort.
We woke up to snowfall and icy cold weather the next morning. What a surprise ! I don’t think anything can beat that experience when you peer out of the window to see snowflakes descending slowly from the sky above. It would only be a matter of time before all that snow would envelope the mountains around us, and the lake would freeze up. It was just the start of the winter season ahead, and we came out of our rooms and enjoyed all we could !
Snowfall wasn’t for long but good enough for all the fun that we wanted that morning. A bright sun was in the offing as soon as the clouds parted, and soon enough it was time for us to leave Pangong and venture on towards Tso Moriri. This was going to be a day of a long drive, but also one of many beautiful clicks on the way; one of the days when our shutters would not stop for the most part, thanks to all the lovely views that were up for grabs.
Sit back, relax, and enjoy this pictorial ride by my side !
We bade good-bye to Pangong soon after when our path veered off it. The flat lands were no less interesting !
We kept on clicking and driving away. It was late afternoon by the time we reached anywhere near Tso Moriri. There was another beautiful lake on the way that was not to be missed.
Evening had already kicked in by the time we reached Tso Moriri. It’s a huge lake by any standards, and we had to keep on driving by it’s side for quite some time before we reached the village on it’s banks. Our next task was to find a place to put up for the night, which is not so easy if you are this late. Nevertheless, we managed a basic one suitable for our needs and dropped our bags there. A bit of photography later, we were ready to pass on the night. This lake is at an altitude higher than that of Pangong, so we braced ourselves for the chill that was about to kick in.
A little more star gazing and a delicious dinner later, we called it a night and retired to our beds; awaiting sound sleep for all our tired bodies, should the cold let that be. Apart from a bit of chit-chat, rest of the dark hours were quiet and peaceful
An early but bright morning it was when I woke up, wherein some of my fellow trip-mates were already chasing yaks on the banks of the lake. I woke up a bit lazy but was enthused soon enough as soon as we started packing our camera bags for a short trip nearby, to the same location where we were last evening, and from where views are really awesome. It’s a quite spot as well, just a little further ahead from the village.
We started soaking in all the beauty as soon as we got off our ride. A lovely cool breeze was all over the place to greet us, just as the views were too. Our cameras came out to capture at least some of all the magic that our eyes were basking in.
After spending a good one hour at the spot, we took a final look at the breathtaking landscape around us, and gulped in deep breaths of all the ‘very fresh’ air that were to be had. We finally drove back to the ‘village’, wherein we indulged ourselves with a hearty breakfast. Thereafter, after a short chat with a friendly tourist couple who were intrigued by our pics, we sauntered towards our rooms, some of us clicking on the way as well. That was to be the end of that morning as well as that of most of the photography during the trip. Soon, we would head back towards Leh, happy and content with those last few days of endless travel and bountiful clicks !
Off we drove soon after our breakfast and pack up were done with. The journey back to Leh was one of ample recollections and talks about our drive which had started from Manali more than a week back. It was all about to end just as all good things do, and next day was to be our last in these realms. I tried to take in as much of the beautiful sights as I could; I had clicked enough of them already, and now was the time to just sit back and watch the views pass by. That lazy deja vu feeling when all you want to do is to just peek out from your vehicle, saying your good byes !
On our way back, we did make an unexpected stop at the Chumathang hot springs; courtesy our driver. Hot water gushes out here from the ground below, and it is said to have therapeutic properties. Locals have channeled the water and made baths around them, so you can also cleanse yourself if you have enough time and inclination to do so. By the way, the water is very very hot as I found out myself ( painfully so ), so be careful especially if you have kids accompanying you.
Chumathang also has small eateries around this tourist attraction of theirs, so you can use it as a pit stop to refuel yourself. Or you can have lunch at Upshi just as we did, approx 4 hrs from Tso Moriri, and just 1 hr before Leh. The Manali-Leh route joins you at Upshi too, and this was where we had had our lunch when we entered Ladakh couple of days back. A note of advice: Eateries here can be considered basic at most. Don’t expect fancy restaurants, for which you may have to go all the way to Leh if your hunger allows you.
All stocked up after our lunch, we now moved on towards the final leg of our journey, making a final photographic stop at the Thiksay monastery on the way. It was early afternoon and still quite bright. The breeze was cool but not chilly, and we enjoyed capturing the monastery for a bit while chatting with some local folks outside. It is a huge structure on a hill, and looks quite majestic from far I’m sure. To visit the monastery and venture inside would take almost an entire day I believe. I think it’s one of those must-visit places if you are in Leh for a day of leisure, with nothing much else on agenda.
Rest of the drive was quiet and uneventful. Sun was beginning to set even as we set foot inside our abode for our final night at Leh. After a brief interval wherein we settled in our rooms, we ventured out yet again to savor the sights of the Leh market and to have a hearty celebratory dinner; our last one for the trip. We had a decent fare at one of the Italian restaurants in the market called ‘Il Forno’. Food was just fine but the crowd was quite much and a bit loud as well, so it may not be recommended if you want to have a cozy and a quite one. On the positive side, this eatery looked decently popular among travelers at-least.
Next day was one of packing up and getting to the airport, nothing more. Some of the last awesome sights can be seen from up above when you’re in the flight; a blanket of snow on the mountains below and yonder, as far as your eyes can see. And then, in a while, all of it starts receding and you realize you’re headed from where you really belong, the plains ! If, however, you still refuse to acknowledge your reality, a pinch may be just something that you need to get out of your beautiful dream that is this journey !
So long before I get back again, after yet another memorable sojourn that a can inspire yet another write-up of mine !
The Essentials:
1) Stay at Pangong Tso: The Golden camp and Restaurant ( #9469395009 ); a little further ahead from the touristy area and from the accommodations there. Comfortable basic rooms and good food. Economical as well.
2) Stay at Tso Moriri was at a very basic place which was one of the first ones as soon as you hit the village, on your left. Room was comfortable and warm enough; food wasn’t worth complaining either. Only note of caution: Be sure to get to the village before dark if you have not booked anything beforehand, and even otherwise. ( 14,000+ ft remember ? ).