Gentle, rolling hills in fi fty shades of green; finely carved chalets with adjacent barns; tinkling bells of cows blissfully grazing in the meadows—this pastoral Swiss image plays out in loops in the tiny town of Appenzell. Walk through the town admiring the houses, boutiques, and restaurants with their colourful façades and intricate frescoes—the Löwen Pharmacy (loewen-drogerie.ch) with its crimson façade painted with medicinal herbs is an architectural gem. Stop by at Böhli Bakery (Alfred und Markus Sutter Engelgasse; 9;+4171/788-1570) to sample the Appenzeller Biber, their delicious gingerbread with honey and nuts.Visit Hampi Fässler’s Atelier (hampifaessler.ch) next, to watch him make traditional leather belts studded with metal décor, which are proudly worn by the local farmers. Head over to Stein (10 kms from Appenzell) to the Appenzeller Schaukäserei (schaukaeserei.ch), a show dairy, where you can watch the pungent Appenzeller cheese being made and the storage process for ageing. In the rustic restaurant of the dairy, try various cheese delicacies like fondue, raclette, and rösti. For a spot of adventure, go hiking or snowshoeing in the Alpine landscape.STAY The stylish Hotel Hof Weissbad (hofweissbad.ch) where the typical Swiss chalet hotel meets a cool design aesthetic. Every Wednesday, the hotel hosts a typical Appenzeller evening featuring traditional string music and folk dances.