Travelling To Uttarakhand Without A Return Ticket #bestof2018

I reached my first stop at 5 AM. A 3km trek awaited me to reach the Himalayan Farm Project in Do Gaon, Nainital. A 3km trek that seemed like 30km. I realised how weak I was! Stumbling in the darkness, and stopping nearly every 10 mins, I finally reached the farm.

Lisa, a German teenager, and I left the farm and after a long journey, which involved hiking, hitchhiking, multiple buses and a taxi, reached Mangalta, a tiny village hidden from the eyes of tourists. We spent our days walking and hiking, and our nights eating meals under the stars and sharing stories. One such day, we ended up hiking to another village (essentially 4 houses on a mountain) and got invited by a kind lady for a cup of chai. Being a non-chai drinker, I refused initially, but upon further pressing, I gave in. That day my love for sugarless tea in a stranger's house in the mountains was hatched. Just as we finished our tea, the men of the house returned for lunch and insisted we eat something before leaving. Not wanting to take from their limited resources, we relentlessly refused. Until they offered us dahi. Lisa and my eyes lit up like the full moon on a starless night. We polished two whole bowls each before heading out.

The next day, we walked to a secluded waterfall. Being the only people there, we decided to take a dip in the cold, clear water. Actually, we already decided that once I slipped into the stream halfway to the falls and got drenched waist down.

Lisa and I headed to Kasar Devi on the suggestion of our hostel owner at Mangalta. By now, Uttarakhand was doused in the trance of Holi.

On the main day, all the villagers gathered and went from house to house with a dhol and sang Kumaoni folk songs. For someone who absolutely despises Holi, it was a refreshing change and I actually let people put just a little bit of gulaal on my face.

What was most interesting about that place, though, was the fact that everybody I met there was there for the 2nd, 3rd or umpteenth time. Each one said, "there is something so special about this place that I can't help returning". And I realised how true that was when I returned for the second time during the same trip.

From there Lisa and I headed our own ways. I went on to spend the next 10 days in the last inhabited village, Khati, enroute Pindari glacier as a volunteer for an art project. The task was to paint the village with life lessons and stories from the villagers. As I spent those days without network, I made a more genuine connection with people around me. Nothing else that I've done in my life has given me more satisfaction. I built some lifelong friendships and memories.

I headed back to Kasar Devi for my last few days, before my dad threatened to disown me if I didn't return. This time, I discovered a new love for music as I spent each evening at Baba Cake, which got its name from the Baba who runs the place and his wife who bakes the most delicious cakes! Jam sessions ensued as people from different cultures got together with the universal language of music.

I spent my last day having chai at a stranger's home with Moku singing his original song as the sun set behind the mountains in the backdrop.

And I left my home and returned to Mumbai.