Our train from Luang Prabang deposited us at Vang Vieng station. We were somewhat unsure what we were going to do there. Once we had checked into our hotel, we had all the time in the world.
Up in the Air
The next morning we woke up early for the much-awaited hot-air balloon ride. At 90 USD it is perhaps the world’s lowest-priced balloon ride. We were picked up by a rickety tuk-tuk, and along the way, several others, many of them back-packing youngsters, were picked up until the ageing vehicle could take no more. Three of the tourists rode on the back beam with their feet dangling outside and one guy seated himself beside the driver.
When we arrived at the launch site, we found a very small basket and wondered how so many of us could get into it. Well, we were eventually packed in like sardines in a tin can. The basket had four compartments and 16 persons were crammed into it, the driver-pilot alone having his own exclusive space. We had been told that the maximum capacity of the balloon was 8 persons. Now we had twice the number. Would the balloon take off at all? Would it come down with crash? The staff seemed to be Chinese or Lao and none spoke English, so we could not really voice our concerns.
The balloon did take off. And nothing untoward happened. The view was not too good. The Mekong threading through the town, a few hills and buildings. We spotted our hotel. We floated for a while, the Chinese (?) pilot rotating the balloon mid-air to enable everyone to get pictures and videos. Soon it was time to get back to earth. It was perfect, safe landing. Our concerns were obviously misplaced. No luxury, no snacks, no champagne, but we did get to fly in a hot-air balloon. For Pavithra, one of my co-travellers it was the first time, so she was excited. Tanuja and I had taken a balloon ride over Bagan in Myanmar, so we weren’t particularly thrilled. But, on the whole, it was worth taking the trip.
Surprises Galore
Vang Vieng had more excitement in store for us. We took a tuk tuk to Elephant Cave, Water Cave, Hoi Cave and two temples. Elephant Cave was a disappointment- nothing elephantine about it. Water cave was where people went tubing. We thought it was too challenging - lying on your back inside a rubber tube, and floating in the water, while holding on to a rope and crawling into a narrow black tunnel, wasn’t really our idea of fun. So we gave it the miss.
Tanuja and Pavithra decided they wanted to go zip-lining. A lot of steep climbing to reach the launch pad. 7 zips. I waited with bated breath until they got back. They were mighty thrilled - came back with a ‘we-done-it’ attitude.
Later we made our way to Hoi Cave which was a little way away from the Water Cave. A huge Buddha guarded the entrance. A couple of cave guardians sat at the entrance and charged us 10000 kip per head. They gave us headlamps to see our way in the dark. We were wary of going in by ourselves, so we demanded that someone accompany us. With English and sign language we managed to make ourselves clear.
There were only two men in the vicinity. One was the ticket seller, a young man. Obviously, he could not abandon his post. The other was an old and feeble man, who looked quite skeptical. However, after some initial hesitation, he nodded his head, picked up a walking stick and led us to the cave entrance where the Buddha stood tall. Pointing to a small hundi (container for cash) he said, “Buddha! Money! Money!” So, he did know one word of English!
We deposited some cash in the hundi and followed him into the dank darkness of the Hoi Cave. The floor was uneven, slippery and slushy in some places. We had to proceed with extreme caution. It was an amazing walk of discovery. Hundreds of stalactites reaching downwards from the roof of the cave. Water dripping at some spots. We were the only ones in the cave, so we had it all to ourselves. We walked quite a long way and then turned back. The old man asked for 30,000 kip. We gave him 40,000. It was less than 3 dollars. There was another cave too, but we had other plans.
In the evening we went on a para-motoring venture. Another 90 USD. Up in the air. No need to glide or rely too much on the wind. The motor did the trick. Two young men from South Korea were ahead of us in the queue. We got talking. After they were done, Pavithra was the first among us to take her turn. Tanuja went next, and I came in last. It was an amazing ride. Takeoff and landing were effortless. Sitting in front I had a perfect view. The driver-pilot sat behind me and guided the craft.
The mountains looked beautiful from above with their sharp, jagged peaks of limestone karst. Sometimes it was scary. What if we were to fall? I shuddered at the thought. The wind assaulted my eyes and nose, and the tears flowed freely. Then we flew over the land and the river. The Mekong at Vang Vieng is a mere canal. At the river the craft swooped down almost to the level of the water and then rose up again. It was both thrilling and fear-inducing. When I finally landed, the sun was going down. I confess I felt relieved.