As the taxi negotiates agonizing twists and turns of the rugged climb I look at the changing landscape - astounding verdant greenery. We are negotiating the Matkuli Hill Range and driving up towards the Pachmarhi Township. Nestled in the Satpura Range Pachmarhi is part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve which encompasses Satpura National Park and Bori Wildlife Sanctuary.
The sharp turns and twists, and the deep glens we leave behind make me dizzy, and my innards shaky. You are conscious of a fatal slip but the driver is at ease and that is comforting.
We stop at Denwa Darshna the mountain river which intersects the biosphere reserve. From the dizzy precipice the river looks like a snake wriggling through steep walls of ancient mountains. The boulder strewn pathway gives way to fine sand filled beaches, and the waters sparkle bright in the sunlight. This is our first introduction of this pristine paradise.
Unspoilt and in perfect state of preservation, Pachmarhi was saved from the axe by its notification as a wildlife sanctuary, and being a Cantt it was saved from rabid urbanization. Unlike other holiday resorts in India the destination is untouched, unspoilt and charming albeit tourist pressure and township reconstruction is have a telling effect in a small area, but nevertheless it still is one of the finest retreat in India.
The most stunning and captivating waterfall I find here is the Silver Falls. Not yet motorable, one has to trek through dense forests to reach the fall. The misty cascade created by the seven hundred feet drop to the enigmatic valley below gives rise to a silver curtain and hence the name. On the way we come across a paleolithic cave with paintings dating back to 20000 years. The next stop is at the Fairy Pool, crystal clear and absolutely still, the pool is fed by an enchanting spring that emerges from the forest clads mountains. Other interesting places to follow are the Handi Cove, Bee Falls, Irene Pool and Reechgarh Caves. There are more....
On one visit you realize that terrain was in a constant state of upheaval since ages with forest clad mountains dotting all over the surroundings. Incidentally the highest point in Madhya Pradesh is Dhoopgarh about nine kms from the township. The hill rises steeply to a height of 1350 MSL. At the top of this mountain sits a quaint resthouse deserted but in a state of preservation. This was the favorite haunt of the British Sahibs during the Raj, and they used to indulge in hunting and revelries best imagined in the summer capital. The destination in the contemporary era is still the summer capital of MP Government.
As you climb up to Dhoopgarh, the vegetation changes giving rise to a distinct ecosystem which supports myriads of life forms especially migratory birds. Another towering mountain is Chuaragarh with four thousand steps to negotiate if you dare to climb. Atop this mountains sits temple of Lord Shiva and is a point of pilgrimage for devout Hindus.
Some of the valleys are deep beyond expectation and are often visited by botanists to explore the goldmines containing rare plants and shrubs. The place contains floral species of immense medicinal value besides being ornamental.
In a small area surrounding the township i.e. the wildlife sanctuary and Satpura tiger Reserve there are a number of natural occurrences like waterfalls, pools, glens, mountains and natural caves. Overriding these iconic spots are cave formations containing Shiva idols, Bade and Chote Mahadev, Jata Shankar and the Pandava Gufa.
Though overcrowded the township has some of the finest old bungalows stamped with exquisite British Architecture, these are in a perfect state of preservation and inhabited. Some have been turned into hotels like the Golf View Hotel in the periphery. Signs of tourism fatigue are obvious but thankfully limited only to the township.
The periphery being part of the biosphere is rich in wildlife and leopard sloth bears, sambar and bison are often encountered by trekkers. An occasional tiger from the reserve finds its way here as well. Due to the varying altitude and immense floral wealth Pachmarhi is soon to become a birding hotspot. One small trek we came across contained more than twenty five species and a fresh pawprint of a tiger.
There are many resorts at Pachmarhi Township, and some luxurious properties owned by MPTDC in the outskirts for accommodation. Street food joints are in plenty along with small shopping centres.
The hills station lies near Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. It is five hours drive from Jabalpur Airport and is also accessible from Bhopal Airport. It lies at a drive of two hours from Satpura Tiger Reserve entrance at Madai.
By Rail: Stoppage at Piparia Station ( 3 hrs from Jabalpur) and one hour drive uphill to the township.