After the boat ride, we walked down some lanes and had the most commonly served breakfast in Varanasi, puri subzi and jalebi and then spent some time at the chai ki tapri, talking to the locals. We kind of lost track of the time. More than half the roads were blocked, rerouted, or jammed. So we walked quite a bit, and got to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. The line was LONG, almost a kilometer long. So we skipped that, and just kept walking. All we did that day was walk aimlessly along the streets, watched the crowd, and realized that no sight seeing is happening whatsoever. We happened to wander towards Manikarnika Ghat while we were searching for Blue Lassi, the next moment we found ourselves dumbstruck, standing at one corner, watching people carry dead bodies down to the Ghat one behind another continuously. There was so much buzz in that lane, everyone chanting 'ram naam satya hai'. It was so unusual, i'd never imagined a sight like this. We then walked down to the Ghodoliya market, had lassi at Blue lassi, chat at Kashi Chaat Bhandar and headed to Shivala Ghat, near our hostel.
The immediate surrounding of our hostel, had some zardozi artisans who worked in their homes, so every time we passed their homes we would peek inside out of curiosity. They showed us their work, the work process, the various techniques. Some of them also embroider these materials for famous fashion boutiques and couture brands.
We headed to the Ghats, to watch the preparations. We sat there from 4:00 pm. We watched them hustle to clean up and organise. By 6:00 everyone had started lighting the lamps at their respective Ghats. We started walking along the ghats once again. We witnessed some funerals too, as the Harishchandra Ghat (i guess). We kept walking, watching each and every step of the ghat being lit, literally LIT. Every ghat had been decorated in different patterns by the residents. Rangolis with diyas and flowers were all over the ghats. The crowd was INSANE. Many tourists opt for the boat ride to watch the ghats from the river, but we wanted to walk through it all. Trust me, its quite a task.