Travelling to the Golden City of Jaisalmer was something that I had only imagined would happen in my wildest dreams. Hailing from the southern most part of South India, the idea of a desert carried differently in my mind. I had grown up reading about the many wonders and fairytales that make Rajasthan the special state that she is, and had over the years drawn a very elaborate picture of what her spectacular cities and villages may look like. And, to say that the reality was far from my imagination would be an understatement. If you too are going to Jaisalmer for the first, let this serve as the ultimate guide that lets you enjoy an immersive experience to the golden city.
When an opportunity presented itself for me to be able to travel to this ancient Silk Route junction, you can imagine my excitement. A short two hour flight from Delhi brought me to a place that I felt like I had known personally but until then had never set foot on.
At first glance, Jaisalmer ticks all the cliches that one would typically expect upon arriving here. The rugged and barren desert landscape, the bright glistening of the sun and of course, the golden hues. My mind immediately wanders to the sojourns of the forefathers who may have arrived here in more unsuitable conditions.
My train of thought is pleasantly interrupted by my first views of the glimmering citadel that stands ever so majestically. The imposing structure is nothing like what I had imagined it to be and it doesn't help that the pictures don't do it justice. Standing tall, in what looks like, the middle of the Thar Desert the Jaisalmer Fort demands my attention and I give in to it as I slowly take in its towering sights. The sun's reflections only adds to the beauty of this roughly 800-year old iron fort.
I spend the better part of the day losing myself in the myriad of cobblestone lanes and narrow steps, completely immersing myself in the fort's architecture while listening to my guide explain the proud history of this iconic monument. Countless photographs for the 'gram and historical recounts later, I head into one of the restaurants that surrounds the outer wall of the fort. I make my way to the terrace, from where I can continue to enjoy the fort views, while digging into a regal meal. The table is dictated by the specialities of the region - Laal Maas (mutton curry), Gatte ki Sabzi (chickpea flour dumpling) and Dal Baati Choorma (lentils and hard wheat balls) that I blissfully wash down with a cold beer under the scorching desert sun.
A short nap at my choice of accommodation, Nachana Haveli, leaves me well-rested and rejuvenated for the rest of the day. And, it is time for the most awaited leg of my trip. A rickety 40-minute ride to the outskirts of the city and we have arrived at our destination.
As I jump off the bus I was mystified by the strange view in front me. The rolling dunes in the endless stretches of the Thar Desert engulfs me in countless emotions. I immediately feel a connection to the numerous weary travellers whom before me would have trudged along these same paths. I have arrived just in time to catch the setting sun illuminate the Great Indian Desert in shades of golden red and watch as the camels slowly make their way back to their outposts for the evening. If it wasn't for a few people around me, I would have almost not believed the sight in front of the me and credited it to a mirage.
As the crescent moon begins to shine its calm brilliance, I sit on a majlis-style cushion with a refreshing glass of gin-and-tonic in hand and keep myself warm from the cold desert wind next to a bonfire. As I lay back and spot shooting stars streak across the clear night sky, against the backdrop of a live musical performance by the melodious Manganiyars, who usually sing for royal family events, led by the great Champe Khan my maiden trip to the desert comes to a bittersweet end. And what do you know, the reality of what I witnessed in Jaisalmer is far better than anything I had imagined.