It was a god sent opportunity for me... I was on an official tour to North Kashmir's Bandipora. I couldn't have let go the window without hopping across the mighty Razdan pass.
Bandipora is one of the new districts carved out of Baramulla. The area is primarily a flattish land along North of Wular lake famous for its pristine beauty, apple orchards and paddy fields. But the real jewel of the district lies beyond the 11500 feet high Razdan pass.
Sharp at 6 am Nazir parked his Scorpio outside my Guest room. And the journey started .. as we rolled out through the town of Bandipora. Nazir pointed at the new cluster of houses in the outskirts of the town and told me these were the rehabilitated people from KishenGanga valley who lost their land when the hydropower project came up.
The drive through the beautiful road with thick forest cover was something to remember. Nazir got us our first halt at a small roadside Tea & Snack point. It was getting nippy as we gained some height.
Our next stop was at the famous shrine of Peer Baba, a little short of Razdan pass. The legendary Baba came here in 1933 and was later buried at this site. For decades travellers and Army Convoys crossing the pass halt here to take Baba's blessings. Just next to the Mazar is a small temple. The entire complex is maintained by Army boys and it was a Garhwali lad who gave me a good brief about the Baba.
And here we were at the highest point on the road - The legendary Razdan Pass of Indo Pak War. Miles of extended meadows and thousands of Sheeps galloping over the slopes ... What a site.
A little bad stretch of road followed as we crossed over ... But the best part was that there was hardly any traffic. Only occasionally did some Car passed across,, probably this was the best time to explore the beauty of Gurez Valley in complete peace.
As we rolled down, the meandering KishenGanga valley started unfolding in front. Trust me when I say it's truly out of the world. Small little hamlets occasionally dot the distant views. It's a narrow valley all along the beautiful river. My imagination raced to the beautiful Neelum Valley which lies across once KishenGanga crosses the LoC. Davar is the only biggest settlement of Gurez.
The iconic Habba Khatun peak was right in front as we crossed Davar.
we had plans to reach right uptill the Kaobol Gali - the dead end of this road but the road 20 kms after Davar was under construction.
On our way back we stuffed ourselves with some Mutton Rogan Josh and Rishta (Minced Mutton balls with gravy) in a local restaurant at Davar.
It was 4:30 pm by the time Nazir dropped me back at my accomodation.
What I liked the most :-
1. Pristine beauty of Gurez. The meandering KishenGanga and the changing foliage.
2. Camping grounds next to the river
3. Beautiful simple people
4. Iconic Razdan Pass and the view of the hills immediately after crossing over towards Gurez with multiple small stream beds. I can only imagine the monsoon beauty of the site.
Why would I like to ride to Gurez on my Bike someday:-
1. Amazing winding roads
2. To immerse myself in the eternal peace.
3. To relish the local cuisines and experience the local culture
4. To stay in one of those old wooden houses.
5. To ride right uptill Kaobol Gali and may be beyond to Drass.
Hope Peer Baba of Razdan makes my wishes come true and I fullfill my dream ride to Gurez soon.
PS :-
1. Surprisingly Gurez Valley has no power supply, it relies on Gen Sets which are sw on for 2 hrs in morning and 4 hrs in the evening. This is despite having the KishenGanga Hydropower project. 🤗
2. A 21 km long tunnel dug under the mountain diverts the water from the KishenGanga to Jhelum for this project.
3. The valley remains cut-off for atleast 4 months during winters.