A Most Unusual Conversation in Bratislava! #BeyondTheBorder

“Hey, you’re from India?”

I turned around and there is this Slovak girl, a café staff, who is looking at me expecting a response. “Yeah. Have you been to India?”

“No, not yet. I am saving up for a trip to India. Goa is my favourite destination. I really want to go there”.

“You’ll definitely love it there. India is a beautiful country.”

“I plan to travel there soon with my friend. Welcome to Bratislava. What would you like to drink?”

That was how my first few minutes were when I decided to step into Enjoy Bistro for a much-needed caffeine shot after having spent the whole day walking across almost all of the old town area in Bratislava.

I had reached Bratislava that morning, by a Ceske Drahy train from Budapest, and headed straight to the Old Town square by tram. A European farmer’s market was a new experience that I got to partake on alighting at Namestie. A drink of Slovak wine later, I headed straight to the Hlavne namestie (Town Square), with the Maximilian’s Fountain occupying centre stage. The square houses the Old Town Hall, Baroque buildings that function as International embassies, cafes and souvenir shops.

I headed straight to the Michael’s Gate. This is one of the major attractions of the city – the copper roof being one of Bratislava’s identities. The 51m tall tower built originally in the 14th century, is topped by a statue of St Michael slaying a dragon. The street passing under the gate has the ‘zero kilometer’ plate, showing the directions and distances of 29 world capital cities from that point.

Walking past the Presidential palace, I reached the Obchodna street, that had a few fashion outlets, several pubs and clubs, lined up. I was literally trudging along by then, and the incline made it that much more difficult. Post a lot of window shopping at the H&M and Terranova stores, and yet not have bought anything, I decided to give shopping a miss, and explore Bratislava’s old town square a tad bit more, before heading back to Vienna.

Past the Michael’s Gate, onto the Michalska street and into one of the outdoor tables of Enjoy Bistro, where I had that interaction with Nadia. A hot cup of black coffee on a cold Slovakian afternoon, was good enough to keep me going for a few more hours.

Walking down the street towards the riverfront, I came upon the street artists. One of them was Pavel Filgas, an arts major from Prague, who taught at the local university and since 2012 started freelancing and took up street painting just to pursue his passion; a group of suave young men playing jazz, a young Hang player and street jesters enthralling the crowds. Such shows of talent have made me fall in love with Europe.

Further down the street, take a little detour, and Cumil – The Man at Work peeps at you from the street level. This is, probably, a landmark in Bratislava. This offbeat bronze statue of a sewer worker resting at the top of a manhole, “peeping” out at passers-by is an Instagram op. This, along with the Schoner Naci (the silver statue of the man with the hat) are two installations that are famed in Bratislava.

Closer to the riverfront, are wide tree lined avenues, with little or no vehicular traffic, that extend into the city park. The park has various installations including a statue of the famous kid’s storyteller – Hans Christian Andersen. Further is the Holy Trinity column – with sculptures of The Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit – on a base with statues of the patron saints who were protectors against the 15th century plague.

The Gothic St. Martin’s cathedral, largest in Bratislava, is a few steps away. I couldn’t manage to step inside. Instead I just managed to capture the exterior. The wall of the adjacent Creative Arts Museum, is another Instagram opportunity with the interesting and quirky artworks adorning the wall. Across the road, the Brastislava Castle situated at a little height, overlooks the city like a quiet sentinel.

So, after a 17 kms walking expedition of the city, I booked the last bus out of Bratislava to neighbouring Vienna. Saw one of the most spectacular sunsets, and miles of windmills, on our way back.

What I loved most about Bratislava, is its small-town appeal. Much slower in pace than the other capital cities. The people in general seemed happier, more relaxed, willing to help and have a conversation. A definite go to place whenever I plan my vacation next.

READY RECKONER:

How to get there:

By Air: Though Bratislava has its own airports, the international flights are limited to a few countries within Europe. For an Indian tourist wanting to visit Bratislava, the best way is to fly to Vienna, and from there take an hour-long bus / cab ride to Bratislava.

By Bus: Buses leave from the airport, Stadion and a few other areas of Vienna. From Bratislava, the bus terminal near the Novy Most (the new bridge) is closest from the city centre.

By Train: Bratislava hlavna stanica, the main train station connects Bratislava with major cities around in Czech Republic, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Serbia, Poland etc.

By Boat: Vienna being 2 hours away by boat, is a trip option for tourists. Twin City Liner boats are available for Vienna from near the Novy Most

Places to Visit:

Some places that can be visited when in Bratislava are:

• Bratislava Castle

• Old Town Square

• Michael’s Gate and Michalska street

• Slavin War Memorial

• St Martin’s Cathedral

There are several interesting installations / statues near the Old Town Square – that are a must see: Cumil (The man at work), Schoner Naci (the silver statue of the man with the hat), the statue of Hans Christian Andersen (the famous fairy tale author) at the Hviezdoslavovo námestie.

Where to Stay:

Bratislava can be easily done as a day trip from Vienna. However, for people wanting to soak in the smaller city charm, take your pick from the lavish Radisson Blu Carlton adjacent to the city park, Crowne Plaza & Austria Trend hotels near the President’s palace, to budget hostels that can be booked for lesser than Rs.1000 at HostelWorld. Airbnb also offers a galore of options to pick from. So, do your research well, and pick a place close to the Old Town square