“Banares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." - MARK TWAIN
It is said that Varanasi is the oldest city of the world.
As a legend goes, Kashi, or Banaras, was the outcome of a fight between Lord Shiva and Lord Brahma. Shiva, in his wrath, took the form of Kal Bhairava, beheaded Brahma, and started wandering aimlessly with disheveled head of Lord Brahma as a form of penance of killing a Brahmin (an unforgivable sin). Kashi is this place, where Brahma's head fell from Kal Bhairava's hand and disappeared. Hence, this place is known to be the holiest of all. The only place mentioned in the sacred texts of Mahabharata, Ramayana, and several other scriptures and is revered by even other religions; this place is not to be visited, but felt.
Kashi: where on one ghat, you see children playing cricket; on another, a couple romancing over the the sunset skies along the Mighty Ganges; on another ghat some elderly priests doing some religious ceremony for the friends and families of the visitors; on the other ghat, you see dead bodies being cremated. This place, isnt a city, its a microcosm of life. You walk along the stretch of the Ghats, and you see your entire life, the vicious cycle in the most beautiful manner in front of you.
So let me begin with how the city got its name Varanasi. Two water streams, namely Varana on the North and Assi on the South, confluence with the river Ganges, and the region between these two rivers, is where the city was formed, Varana-Assi: Varanasi.
The city, is abode of multiple Shiva (masculine) temples, equal amount of Shakti (feminine) temples and multiple Sun temples too. That being said, you will find temples of almost all Hindu Gods and Goddesses in the small streets of the city of Kashi. Oh, and its not only limited to Hinduism that Banaras is known for. The city is also home to the infamous Gyaan-Vapi Mosque which the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb had built next to the Vishwanatha Temple.
However, the city is not limited to only temples or the river Ganga. Only if rocks could tell the stories of how old the city is and how many important figures have visited this place in history, you would be astonished. Almost every ghat has a story behind it, and you would be lucky if you can navigate yourself through the maze of the alleys of Varanasi (I have got lost in the labyrinth of the streets umpteen times myself).
Literally, Das(ten)-Ashwa(horse)-medh(sacrifice), this ghat is undoubtedly the busiest ghat of Varanasi. From the dusk, till the midnight, this place is always filled with Brahmins, either doing some sort of ceremony or bathing in the Holy Ganga, or some even asking tourists to get their forehead painted with Sandal paste, for a meagre donation. This is also a Ghat you should visit every evening for the most holy Ganga Aarti (worship of the Ganges) where priests stand in front of the river with many diyas (fire lamps) in their hands, and give respect to the Holy Ganga.
Literally, Manikarna(Jewel earings), the ghat, where death is celebrated. It is said, that since thousands of years, there has never been a time, the ghat is free of a dead body to be cremated. As the legend goes, any person who dies in this city, and cremated here, is free from the vicious circle of life. No judgement day, no Chitragupt judging you through his records. Lord Kaal Bhairav grants direct moksha. It takes a strong heart and a clear conscience to watch corpses lined up in a row to be cremated, a few on a burning pyre, and to able to think clearly simultaneously. You will also find many Aghori Babas sitting here, doing some sort of Tantrik meditation, since this place has a very powerful energy for a certain forms of rituals.
Probably the most dynamic ghats of all; the mornings start with Subeh-e-Banaras, an event where old and middle aged come for Ganga aarti and free yoga sessions; as the day advances, the vibe changes from oldies to the young people bored of life. Many youngsters live near Assi ghat since the colleges are nearby, and by evening, the ghat is filled with young adults flocking the streets, some playing guitars, some just talking and joking around. By the night, in the nicely lit ghat, you can find people just walking around sipping tea, till the city sleeps. This is a place that has started getting a more modern vibe, with many cafes, and restaurants to go to. Late at night, you can stand at the Assi ghat, and watch the entire city of Banaras like a string of bright pearls in a necklace.
Must do things in Varanasi:
1) Kashi Vishwanath Temple
2) Evening Ganga Aarti (At Dasashwamedh Ghat)
3) Subeh-E-Banaras (At Assi Ghat)
4) Visit Manikarnika Ghat
5) Watch the sunrise over any of the ghats
6) Visit a few temples that intrigue you
7) Do a street food tour
Hostel: HosteLavie, Varanasi
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