What new can be possibly written about one of oldest cities in the world? Only the fact that I was as enchanted by this place as any visitor/traveller. Varanasi has an old world charm which has welcomed new world modernity with open arms while still managing to retain its ancient essence.
We went here as a family with a purpose of performing shraad for my grandparents in the scorching heat of May 2023. Needless to say, it was actually difficult to survive in the heat but we braved the climate as we had a much bigger purpose to be there and that's what kept us going. We started our trip from the Varanasi airport aka Lal Bahadur Shastri airport. There are government regulated taxis available at a reasonable rate- one of them dropped us to our destination whcih as 27 kms away in Gowdowlia in the heart of Varanasi. After settling in our hotel for sometime, we set out for the tour of the city.
Prominent places:
1) Shri Kashi Vishvanath temple:
Lord Shiv is the main deity here and this place is one of the 12 jyotirlingas. Temple is located on the western bank of the sacred river Ganga. Historically, this temple has been demolished many times by invaders, most recent one being Emperor Aurangzeb., but was later rebuilt by Queen Ahalyabai Holkar. The temple is mentioned in the Puranas including Kashi Khanda (section) of Skanda Purana and is considered to be older than 4th century. This temple is one of the most important Hindu pilgrimage site all over the world. More recently, the Kashi Vishvanath corridor has been constructed around the temple which has elevated it into a beautiful and well maintained temple complex where crowds, though of large numbers are managed very well.
Darshan: There is a facility from the Kashi Vishvanath website wherein you can book your darshan with timing, online and you will be escorted by a priest/panditji for the darshan. Usually this sugam VIP darshan takes less time than normal Darshan and particularly works well if you have elderly members in your group.
2) Dashashwamedh Ghat and the famous Ganga Aarti:
This is one of the closest ghats near the Kashi Vishvanath temple. As per legend, Lord Bramha performed ten Ashwamedh Yagyas here and in 2nd century AD, a king called Bharshiva repeated this act to keep up with tradition and hence this place was named so. As per Skanda Purana, this place was named Rudrasar. The ghat also finds a mention in the Matsya Purana. More recently this ghat was rebuilt by Peshwa Bajirao and later renovated by Queen AhalyaBai Holkar.
The Ganga aarti is performed in this ghat during sunrise and sunset. The one during sunset is the more famous and people from various parts of the city and world and every walk of life come to witness this surreal experience of the Ganga aarti. Several priests perform this ritual by performing aarti with a big deepam to Maa Ganga in the rhythmic tune of bhajans. Having personally witnessed this aarti, I can say that it is one of the most peaceful yet spiritual life experiences that I’ve ever had. The aarti can be witnessed by sitting on the seats in the ghat or on the ferry on the river Ganga. We chose the latter.
3) Sankata Mata Mandir:
This is a small modest temple dedicated to Mata Sankata Devi or Goddess of Danger and is the only temple in the world dedicated to this deity. Goddess Sankata Mata was originally a Matrika in Puranas she is referred to as Vikat Matrika or fierce Goddess. It is believed that Devi Sankata Mata has 10 hands and she is prayed to in order to avoid any danger in life or alleviate any current crisis. It is also believed that Pandavas during their exile prayed to Sankata Mata.
4) Manikarnika Ghat and Devi Vishalakshi Shaktipeeth:
Manikarnika Ghat is the most sacred cremation ground as it is believed that a soul attains moksha and breaks the cycle of rebirth when cremated here. It is believed that Goddess Sati’s earrings fell here and hence the ghat is called Manikarnika. We saw many corpses being cremated here and it is said that they cremate corpses 24/7. We saw many funeral processions happening right on the path we were walking.
Vishalakshi Devi temple is located near Manikarnika Ghat. It is a small and modest temple (for a Shakti Peeth), but is well maintained. As per Skanda Purana, Sage Vyasa visited Kashi but was disappointed as he was not offered food by anyone. Goddess Annapurna appeared in the form of Devi Vishalakshi, a housewife who then offered food to the sage. South Indians regard Kashi Vishalakshi, Madurai Meenakshi and Kanchi Kamakshi as the most important Devi temples.
5) Ratneshwar Mahadev temple:
Situated at Manikarnika Ghat, this temple is also called leaning temple of Kashi or Kashi Karvat. It leans at 90 which is 50 more than Italy’s Leaning tower of Pisa. The garbhagriha is generally much below normal land and is submerged under water mostly during the year except during summers.
6) Kaalbhairav temple:
This is also a very old Shiv temple. Kaal means ‘death’ or ‘time’ and it is said that Kaalbhairav is the one who removes fear of death and time. The silver idol shows Lord Kaalbhairav seated on his vahana- Dog and is holding a Trishul. He is said to be the kotwal of Sati Pind and of Banaras and is the protector of Kashi.
7) Sankat Mochan Hanuman Mandir:
It is believed that this temple was the place where poet Tulsidas (who wrote Ram Charit Manas nearby this temple) first dreamed of Lord Hanuman for the first time. He also wrote Hanuman Bahuk in this temple. The temple was later reconstructed by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya who also founded the Banaras Hindu University.
8) Sarnath:
This place is located at about 30 kms from the heart of Varanasi and is one of the four major Buddhist pilgrimage sites. It is here that Gautama Buddha preached a group of disciples for the first time after attaining enlightenment. The name Sarnath is derived from Sarangnath meaning Deer God. Buddha gave his first sermon at the Deer park in this place and hence the name.
The national emblem i.e. Ashoka Pillar or Sthamb stands at a height of 50 m along with Dhamik Stupa here. There is also a Tibetan temple and a 80 feet Buddha stature in the premises.
Food, Shopping and commuting in Varanasi:
The city is as famous for its delicacies as for its temples. Tomato chat from Kashi Chat Bhandar and Kachori with aloo sabji from Ram Chat Bhandar deserve a special mention. You will get Banarasi paan, Thandai, other chaats almost everywhere. People of Varanasi are extremely friendly and helpful and they welcomed us lovingly in their Bhojpuri Dialect.
Banarasi silk saris are woven here and hence are the most famous shopping commodity. Meenakari earrings are also quite famous. There are also some malls which have some high end brands.
Commuting is very easy with e-rickshaws and cycle rickshaws and the major tourist attractions are located quite near to each other hence can be covered by walk as well.
Overall, Varanasi is a beautiful example of a place where old world charm meets new world modernity, life meets death, maya meets moksha and God meets Humans 😊
