When I think of Goa, one thing that remains beautifully vivid in my mind is the sight of thick clouds looming over the sky and palm trees gently swaying to the rhythm of the wind. It takes me back to the time when I arrived in this coastal land just in the middle of monsoons. The endless downpour and quietude of the otherwise busy streets did not feel any less romantic or dampen my traveler's spirit. What turned significant in this moment was the surrounding view of lush green paddy fields and blooming wild til and pagoda flowers sprawling along the streets.
Such is Goa-charming and alluring.
The faint scent of wet earth from the morning drizzles lingered on for a long time. By now the rain had washed off the grimy roads, terracotta roofs, balcão of old Portuguese houses, and dusty tropical trees in the neighborhood, revealing a verdant landscape and a rich foliage. As if someone had reproduced the entire panorama like an art on a canvas. The idyllic nature and mellow mood of the place further elevated its characteristic charm.
And all this while, sitting on the verandah of a 44-year-old homestay, run by a French woman, I found myself enjoying the nature, the bustle and tiny experiences of life happening at once. Along with my cup of tea, the crisp air only added to the magic.
If there is one place that has drawn me in time and time again, it is this land that feels synonymous with happiness and Arcadian life. As seasons change, Goa transforms too, baring a new side, offering a glimpse into the microcosm of the ever-changing world. While rest of the country enjoys springtime in April, here, the month becomes unbearably hot, making it impossible to step out in the afternoons.
The rusty red colored laterite soil found in abundance in this region looks dry and parched, giving the landscape almost a barren-like appearance. But the languid summers make a way for slow-moving unhurried days, accompanied by hearty meals and mandatory siesta. Locals would call this culturally embraced lifestyle--the Susegad, a way of living that inspires contentment, quietness, and mindfulness, savoring every moment of life.
In contrast to the sweltering heat of summers, the winters are balmy and pleasant. This is the best time for outdoors, alfresco dinners, walking tours, and visits to historical sites and spectacular churches.
On several occasions, we hiked to the top of the Reis Magos, Aguada and Chapora forts, right before sunset, experiencing the vastness of the sea. From this vantage point, the breathtaking vista felt surreal as we watched sun rays scatter across the sky and illuminate the distant horizon.Beyond the beaches, flea markets, and nightlife, Goa features old architectural grandeurs like the Neo-Gothic Mae de Deus Church in Saligao, the baroque style Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Churchatop a hill in Panjim and the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Velha Goa. I can spend an entire day walking the streets of Old Goa, visiting every church in the neighborhood, capturing St. Augustine tower from many angles and whizzing past the Mandovi river that delicately meanders through the capital.
Not far away from here lies Fontainhas, Goa's old Latin Quarter, a heritage area that seems to inherently assimilate the influence of Portuguese into its cultural identity and predominantly into the vernacular architecture of the city. This is evident in the form of red tiled roofs, arched windows, ornate balconies and terracotta figurines of roosters and soldiers on the rooftops of colorful houses along the alleyways.
As you walk past these charming buildings, some brightly painted, some pastel-hued, some standing tall, and some dilapidated, the historical neighborhood opens its space for sprawling cafés, designer stores, high-end boutiques, pottery studios, antique shops, ceramic artifacts and art galleries to its patrons and spectators.
Such beautiful objects demand your attention for sure.
And no trip to Goa is complete without a visit to my old favorite Velha Goa Galeria . The shop specializes in Azulejos -a form of art that involves creation of glazed, hand-painted tiles. A technique that came along with the Portuguese and went back with them until much later a Goan returned from Lisbon carrying a bag full of Azulejos tiles to revive the art. Today, the city seems to have quickly embraced the craft, with artisans acquiring the skills and turning them into a niche profession.
The Azulejos (aah-zhoo-le-zhus) have found its way into homes, churches and public spaces, such as the ones adorning the interiors of Menezes Braganza Hall in Panjim. And before we left, we traced our way to the original shop, Azulejos de Goa , which introduced the ornamental tiles to the coastal land, bearing an imprint of Portuguese art and culture. The artistry has long since seamlessly blended into Goa's own heritage.
We lingered for a while in the Latin Quarter, strolling and making a pitstop at a pottery studio called Thomas the Potter. Call them quirky, unique, eccentric or strange, the studio houses some unconventional pieces of ceramic work. Seemingly inspired by the ocean world and featuring pot-bellied and peculiar looking human figures, Thomas Louis, the master behind the artistry, has put together a resplendent work.
For almost a decade now, Goa has been our go-to destination. Without any second thought, without wandering where to travel next, my husband and I keep returning to this place, which we have begun to call our second home. Yet, we have glimpsed only a fraction of it. There is a lot of exploration left to do. This is one place that begs to be seen with a fresh perspective each time. It may seem like an endless chase, a quiet pursuit that constantly nudges me to discover, inquire, and know more of the culture, history, art, architecture, language and people who have settled here for centuries.
My quest is on, and the journey persists. As if standing on the ocean's edge, this is just a beginning.
I write here: https://amritaduorah.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
