It was beginning to get dark but the main market was still bustling with people. The aroma of fresh roasted kebabs invited me to the nearby lane, where I promised I'd take myself often. Curious eyes surveyed me as I walked along the main market listening to the comforting prayer song from the mosque. People around were all dressed in black. Black banners and posters printed in Arabic were in every nook and corner of the street, and I was sure something important was happening. I later learnt that it was Muharram week, an important religious event for the Shia Muslim community that resides in Kargil. How often do you land in a place when a culturally or religiously significant event is happening? I was happy to have landed there at the right time for I knew I was going to learn a lot about Kargil.