The Haunted Lights and Open Graveyards of Dumas Beach


The roundabout that leads to Dumas Beach has a very eerie kind of silence attached to it. For a while you’ll find nothing but what seems like an old abandoned farmhouse whose walls run side by side with your car. There are empty lands devoid of any resort or even a restaurant. Finally you arrive at your destination and you find yourself at a beach unlike any other you have seen in India.

Dumas Beach has black sand. The entire area has 4 beaches in total out of which two seem to be most popular. At first instance you won’t find anything spooky about the place. Other than black sand and the annoying presence of smoke emitting chimneys of factories located on the other side of the river, the beach doesn’t have much. You’ll find camels and their owners waiting for new customers, couples and a few bhajia walas strolling around.

When I reached Dumas looking to experience something haunted, I didn’t realized anything at first. A friend and I walked, clicked some pictures and then came to an isolated area with some benches. So we decided to stop and rest for a while. We were about to clean one of the bench when we felt something odd. There were roses on the bench. It didn’t take much time to find out that it was not a seating area but a graveyard.

As a traveller, I have a rule of not going where your fate doesn’t allow you to go. I walked back, caught my breath and found the exit of the beach.

Back in days, when the cast system was very much prevalent in India, the members of scheduled casts were not allowed to cremate their dead according to Hindu rituals. Despite not a part of traditions, these communities had to bury their dead. The open graveyards around Dumas Beach are one of the sites where these graves are in plenty. It is believed that because these dead didn’t find salvation by cremation, their spirits haunt this area.

I spoke to a local shopkeeper, he said that most of the people leave by evening. There are strange lights seen on the beach but there are chances that they may be coming from the factories at the opposite side. There have been a few accidents because the parts of beach is filled with stones and bushes and people often wander and get hurt.

We stayed there till 7 and then left. The lack of lighting and the presence of the black sand make the place mighty creepy. Even though we didn’t see any ghost, the story behind this place was disturbing enough.

What else you can do in Surat

Surat doesn’t have a lot of places of tourist interest. If you are coming here to see the phenomenon of Dumas Beach then spare some time and try the local delicacy, Locho or Locha. It is a loose version of Dhokla and looks as if someone intentionally made a bad dhokla. Eaten when chutney and kadhi, its taste is heavenly.

Jagdishchandra Aquarium is one of the attractions of the city and is a part of Dr. Shyamaprasad Mukerjee Zoological Garden. This well maintained aquarium has about 35 varieties of fishes at display and is very popular between locals as well as visitors.

Explore Vansada National Park

At a distance of 120 km from Surat, Vansada National Park is a delight for the wildlife lovers. After exploring Dumas, you can return to Surat for the night and next morning take a bus till Vanasada.

Vansanda means Bamboo in local language. This forest is filled with dense, tall bamboo trees with a number of wildlife attractions hiding in plain sight. While it is not huge, still it is a home to leopards, hyenas, macaques, deer, flying squirrels. You will also see reptiles like pythons resting on the tree branches.

It is recommended to return to Surat post lunch as there is a lack of stay options in this area.

How to reach Dumas Beach

Dumas Beach is 22 km away from Surat. You can find shared autos and buses till a distance but from there you’ll have to take your own ride or hire an auto rikshaw. Make sure that your vehicle is booked for return journey as well because finding a ride back home is kind of difficult.

Stay options

Surat city has the best stay options. Being one of the prime business hubs of Gujarat, you’ll find hotels, guest houses and resorts for travellers of every walk of life.

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