5) Nerwa to Haripurdhar - 'Don’t do this route if you are an amateur rider'
I can say it with no doubt, in lieu of my pulsating experience that I had on this route, that this one’s not a 'friendly'. Extremely narrow, frequent show up of muddy, slippery sections with technically no road at all, no fuel stations, no bike repair shops, no restaurants, no lodges, no water (yes and I mean mineral water for sale, otherwise you can find hand-pumps in the interiors), rocks/gravels all throughout the road, no sightings of tourists/bikers or any outsider, and huge river crossings (no kidding).
All of this was leading up to a certain fear in me that whether I would be able to make it through this route or not. I kept moving though. The view of the valley and mountains is indeed picturesque here and of course locals who are seen carrying heap of plucked grains and crates of apples that they put in their trucks. Himachal is pre-dominantly run on apple business, which is of course seasonal, and also tourism.
The only gut that kept me going (and also since I was solo so..) was my prior experience of had traveled on such terrains (Uttarakhand and Ladakh were my boastful projects), but quite frankly it wasn’t helping much. This terrain was undoubtedly tougher, and I don’t recommend anyone doing this, at-least if you planning solo.
If in a group with pro riders? Then yes.
There are two routes to reach Haripurdhar from Nerwa, one is the good one that crosses Soil, Shatal and takes a big ‘U turn’ touching Uttarakhand border. But I didn’t take this route. Instead I took this bypass cum short cut which google maps didn’t recommend because of its treacherous condition. The explorer bug in me told me to plunge into this dungeon and I fell for it. The latter one which I took was crossing Dhansari, Dahiya, Kupvi and then Haripurdhar. It was 80 kms of ride in a cold blooded terrain of rocks, mud, forest and giant mountains. The famous Churdhar top as villagers told me came in the way, somewhere around Kupvi.
The route did present landscapes that I had never seen in my life. Here’s a snapshot of what all I saw