I had been to different hill stations in India, but when I visited Matheran in October 2019, it really stood out to be a blissful one. There is a toytrain along the woods, ample view points with breathtaking sceneries and above all an unpolluted sublime air, the combination of which gives the place its uniqueness.
On a Friday morning I started from Bandra station and took a local to Neral. Neral is a very small station and does not have much to write about. Despite being a small station, it has an importance - the toy trains for Matheran leaves from here. Unfortunately toy train timings did not match with my itinerary, therefore I booked a shared taxi which took me up to a point called Dasturi Naka. After this point no cars are allowed, you have to take man-pulled rickshaws or horses to get into the Matheran town (only this toy train is the single automobile allowed inside the town, hence it is so popular on the weeknds). You can also walk through the lovely woods, it would merely take you half an hour to reach the town from Dasturi Naka. People from Pune or Mumbai can directly drive to Dasturi Naka, park their car overnight. It is very safe to park there (I heard there is a parking charge but not sure about it). From Neral to Dasturi it will take you 30-45 mins at the most but the toy train covers this journey in 2 hours (official time).
After reaching Dasturi Naka I took a bold decision to walk, after all I had come to trek, so physical activity was mandatory. The path to Matheran went through woods . Though I was completely exhausted, the serenity and the scenery made me forget my painful experience. The pictures below would show the path from Dasturi Naka to inside the town through the woods.
After reaching Matheran I relaxed a bit at an eatery. A quick lunch refreshed my mood and I set off on my trek further to explore this blissful town.
As with most hill stations, sightseeing at Matheran revolves around various Points from where assorted views unfold of mountains, sunset, sunrise and everything in between. The mandatory lake, the Charlotte Lake, is another must on the visitors circuit. In the monsoons, an impressive waterfall develops from the overflow. Another smaller lake is Simpsons Lake or Ghoda Talao as it is locally known - because the ghodawallas wash their horses there!
The monsoons are magical, misty and refreshingly cool. Heavy downpours every afternoon are the norm. Umbrellas are pretty useless, it is better to buy the standard local raingear - a large plastic bag with cutouts for head and arms as a raincoat and a wide brimmed plastic hat. Both are very cheap and very effective!
Some of the famous points are Khandala point,Echo point(yes! you can here your echo!!) Panorama point, Alexander point ... etc .. The list is endless. Walking down the tail you can actually discover Matheran yourself. People here are very friendly and helpful. Just set out to explore the place on your own (make sure you have the map as network is feeble). Adventurers can even try 'Valley Crossing' .(you swing from one point to the other by a rope with 1000ft deep valley below you!!!)
Monkeys abound at every nook and corner. Most will boldly seize every opportunity to deprive unsuspecting tourists of their eatables. Langurs and Giant Squirrels are often seen in the forest. It is amazing how shy the forest monkeys are compared to their oversmart city cousins. Giant Squirrels are arboreal, emitting their distinctive clickety clack sound. The Matheran variety - Ratufa indica Elphinstonii - has a creamy white tail, distinguishing it from the orange tailed Malabar squirrel. They are indeed very cute. On a rare occasion, a deer or two may also pass by. Pretty hill birds are plenty though easier heard than seen through the dense foliage. Butterflies are abundant. India's second largest butterfly the impressive Blue Mormon, and the Red Helen are common sights.
All through my trek down the trail I lost the count of time . It was time to head back with memories and souvenirs. No one should leave Matheran without buying the local Chikki sweets available in several varieties, the most popular being the old fashioned crushed groundnut. Traditionally, chikki was made with jaggery and nuts, nowadays due to the preference for everything crispy, glucose replaces the jaggery. Forest Honey collected by the local Adivasi tribals, is also a good buy. Matheran is also known for its hand crafted leather footwear, available in the shops in the main market.
So that was the end to a blissful getaway.It was a day well spent.
By road from Mumbai via Expressway to Shedung, then NH4 to Chowk Phata, or all the way on NH4 to Chowk Phata, then left turn passing ND Studio of Jodha Akbar fame, to Neral from where a climbing ghat road goes upto Dasturi.
By local train from Mumbai to Neral on the Karjat line. Mountain train from Neral to Matheran station.
The toy train does not ply in the monsoons due to high incidence of landslides.
Share Taxi, private taxi or ST bus available from Neral or Karjat to Dasturi.
Hotels available at all budgets, with substantial discounts for week days and off season.
Weather: Pleasant to cool year round. Blankets required at night though Matheran is not that cold. Exceedingly damp during the monsoons. Afternoons can be uncomfortably warm in open clearings in summer.
Tips: Thick soled footwear is a must to walk comfortably on rubbly bridle paths. As with the rest of Maharashtra excepting Mumbai, Matheran is also prone to prolongued load shedding. A torch or rechargeable lantern comes in handy.