We are all stuck indoors for the last nearly 2 months. Many of us, me included, are craving to pack our bags and just scoot of to the next destination on this list. This too shall pass, and travel gear will come out again. Till then, I'd like to reminisce on my last trip before the lockdown, that I took in December 2019.
This was essentially an experiment for me, to understand whether I have the patience and understanding and enthusiasm that is needed for birding and bird photography. Some of my colleagues are serious birders, and their content has always fascinated me. So, this winter, I decided to pack my bags and head to the hills, in search of the winged beauties and in search of myself.
Doing away with the mundane details of the itinerary, and how after a little adventure later, I finally reached the beautiful village of Pangot. Pangot is a quaint little village, primarily a birder’s paradise, about 20kms uphill from Nainital. I had booked myself in the Jungle Lore Birding Lodge, which in my opinion is by far the best option to stay in Pangot if you want to get the feel of living right in the midst of the forest and the birds… It has just 4 cottages, each at different levels, and nestled within a thicket. The best part is the hide which is a part of the property, and where you get to see a large number of avian visitors, and if lucky a marten too (though I wasn’t as lucky). Barking deer also pay a visit to the hide.
With daytime temperatures hovering around 12 oC and night time dipping to 2-3 oC, winter is a perfect time to visit Pangot. My days were spent thus: waking up early morning to the sound of birdsong, layering up, picking up the camera and walking up to the hide and other spots in the property in search of the thrushes, tits, jays, parakeets etc. Enjoying a warm Indian breakfast of parathas while soaking in the winter Himalayan sun. Random solo hikes to woodpecker point and other birding spots around the village. Reading a book while basking in the afternoon sun. Again, visiting the hide for an early evening tete-a-tete with the birds. Watching the sun descend in the horizon from a machan at The Great Barbet, followed by a steaming hot cup of tea. I could live like this forever.
I was happy, though not satisfied, with the number of different species that I could chance upon. Also realised that bird photography needs specialised gear to capture the detail of the birds from a distance. I really wish I could have chanced upon the Koklass and Khaleej pheasants, but I guess another trip is needed for that.
After 3 fabulous days in Pangot, I went past Nainital, bursting with the holiday crowds, and reached Sattal, another relatively quiet destination. Sattal, is formed of 7 interconnected lakes, creating a beautiful biome replete with oak, pine, rhododendron forests, and home of over 200 species of native and migratory bird species. One of the highlights of Sattal, is the Studio, so called because it is a favorite hangout for photographers, who wait patiently for that precious sighting. I realised during this trip that to be a birder you need ample amount of time to just blend into the surroundings, such that the birds are comfortable to come into view – especially when you are surrounded by the forest. Majority of tourists in Sattal restrict themselves to boating in Ram Tal or Sita Tal, hence places like the studio are havens where you can lose yourself for several hours without being disturbed. Then there is the Garud Taal, which is one of the seven lakes albeit tucked away from the main road. And sitting by the lake with only the birds for company is surreal. I took a good decision of staying at the KMVN Rest House just opposite the Ram – Sita Tal, giving me super quick access to the Studio and the Garud Tal. Also, if you want to explore a little more, the area behind the YMCA campsite is also interesting, which gives a full view of the Ram Tal.
That’s a quick recap of my 5-day Uttarakhand trip. I now would really want to go back to the land of the Gods either on the Chopta Tungnath trek or the Kedarkantha trek soon.
