A trip to Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) :- Saga of broken dreams

Tripoto
6th Aug 2019
Photo of A trip to Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) :- Saga of broken dreams by The Urban Nomad

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How it feels when people having same language, food and culture are separated by border? Or if someone lost home, family and friend because a line is drawn on the map? How it feels to not to be able to make phone calls or write letters to your loved ones across the border? Korean separation is all about millions of broken dreams living with some hope.

The demilitarized zone or popularly known as DMZ that runs between North Korea and South Korea is the most fortified border on earth. This buffer zone was created in 1953 as part of an armistice agreement to stop the Korean war.

If you are visiting South Korea, then this half day trip is must! So, there was no way I was going to miss this opportunity! Stay tuned to know more about my experiences around the demilitarized zone.

One cannot enter inside DMZ by his own and must join a conducted tour. There are several governments approved tour agencies operating from Seoul and you can book their tickets online. I booked my trip through Klook and got some discount. Usually the trip cost is between KRW 55,000 to 70,000. ( INR 3500 to 4500)

I was staying at Pangyo which is 30 minutes train ride from Seoul and my tour operator did not have any pickup there. We talked over WhatsApp and checked options. Nearest pickup was from Gangnam. So, I reached Gangnam Station around 7.30 am.

They picked me and several other tourists from different locations in van and dropped us at starting point. We were asked to take seats in a big bus and our tour guide Sou greeted us. She briefed us about the itinerary and other features of the trip. There are several restrictions and guidelines one must follow inside the DMZ which were explained nicely by Sou. Please pay attention to these details and don't do anything that is restricted. Please do remember DMZ is still a high-tension area despite of armistice between two countries!

As we started our journey towards our first stop Imjingak park; I could socialize with some fellow travelers. This is advantage of such group tours; you get to meet and talk to people from different countries and culture.

Imjingak is a theme park created near Imjin river and it is dedicated to the millions of people affected by Korean separation. The stop was for 30 minutes and I roamed around to take some snaps of several murals, statues and exhibits.

Photo of Imjingak Park, Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Day 1
Photo of Dora Observatory, Je3(sam) ttanggul-ro, Jangdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of Dora Observatory, Je3(sam) ttanggul-ro, Jangdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of Dora Observatory, Je3(sam) ttanggul-ro, Jangdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of DMZ The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, 점원리 Gunnae-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of DMZ The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, 점원리 Gunnae-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of Dorasan Station, Dongjang-ri, Jangdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad

But most touchy one for me was this engine from a rail that carried prisoners of war from North. I was told North Korean forces showered bullets on that train and marks are still visible on it!

Photo of A trip to Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) :- Saga of broken dreams by The Urban Nomad
Photo of Dorasan Station, Dongjang-ri, Jangdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of Dorasan Station, Dongjang-ri, Jangdan-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad

After armistice was signed in 1953, thousands of PoWs were transferred through a bridge over Imjin river. This is now known as Freedom Bridge. As we were crossing the bridge, Sou told this is also known as cow bridge ! Because once founder of Hyundai , who is originally from North sent 1000 cows for his countrymen!

In this trip the closest you will get to North Korea is Dora Observatory. It was our second stop of the day. Dora observatory is on top of the Mount Dora and from the rooftop observatory one can have panoramic view of DMZ. Also, North Korean village across the border is also visible. There is an array of telescope through which closeup of North Korea can be seen. As per our guide that village is nothing but created for propaganda, they want to showcase to the world that things are hunky dory out there!

Dora observatory also has some exhibition walls and auditorium and you can spend some time to know more about the DMZ and Korean conflicts.

After North Korea invaded South 1950, both countries got involved into war that lasted for 3 years. In 1953 armistice halted the war and both countries agreed to maintain status quo. But even after that North allegedly tried to launch secret attacks on South and dug tunnels in disguise of coal mines! South Korea has discovered four such tunnels which were supposedly dug to sneak troops from North!

3 rd infiltration tunnel is one of such tunnels and now it is open as public exhibit! It was quite a walk inside the tunnel.

Photo of A trip to Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) :- Saga of broken dreams by The Urban Nomad

It is quite narrow and low in height; I lost count of number of times banged my head against the tunnel! Don't show heroics and keep your helmets always on. Photography is not allowed inside, and I had to keep my mobile, camera and other belongings in the locker.

Once you reach to the end of the South Korean side, you could see a clock that says number of days since armistice is signed! The tunnel is challenging, and I would not recommend anyone having medical or other challenges to go inside.

Hundreds of thousands of people from North are stuck at this side and many of them live in the villages near DMZ. They are engaged in farming and cottage industries with the support from government. You can buy some of their produces from the souvenir shop in 3 rd infiltration tunnel like DMZ chocolate, North Korean Whiskey etc.

Last destination of the tour was Dorasan Station which is final station of South Korean side on Gyeongui Line which used to connect North and South. But they rather call it first station towards North rather last station of South!

In last few decades there were several futile talks of reunification, but still people across are living with hopes and Dosan is their gateway to dream ! As a symbol of peace attempt and hope of reunification, this line was restored in 2007 but currently no train operate on these lines.

Photo of A trip to Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) :- Saga of broken dreams by The Urban Nomad

But you can buy ticket of Pyongyang bound imaginary passenger train and go inside the platform. There are markings, announcements and display of the train that will never come! I was completely flabbergasted by the way people in here are trying to keep their hope and emotion alive! Don't forget to get the boarding pass stamped by the station attendant and preserve it as souvenir!

After Dorasan station we were taken back to Seoul. Though not in our itinerary; we had a stop at Ginseng Centre. This was more like a marketing event to showcase and sell ginseng products!

I took option for traditional Korean lunch along with the trip and I highly recommend doing so. Once we reached downtown Seoul, the lunch was served at a small restaurant, but the food was lip smacking!

After lunch we bid adieu to each other and said good wishes!

Even after the tour was over, I was feeling overwhelmed! My forefathers had to suffer wounds of Indian partition and I saw how they miss friends, family and home across the border. I was feeling quite emotional!

I would strongly encourage you to include DMZ trip to South Korea itinerary! But plan and make sure to book with some reliable tour operator!

Special Note: This is DMZ Trip open to nationalities of all countries. But if you want to visit JSA ( Joint Security Area ) , things are very much restrictive. JSA is right on the control line and under UN observation. Citizens of many countries are not allowed to enter JSA so please check your entitlement before you book. Please note one needs to go through screening and approval before taking the JSA trip. Indian passport holders are allowed in JSA but I could not book a ticket as all slots were booked for next 3 weeks.

If you want to see vlog version of this trip and rest of my South Korea travel series please check here and subscribe to my Youtube channel.

www.youtube.com/TheUrbanNomad

Photo of Imjingak Park, Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad
Photo of Imjingak Park, Majeong-ri, Munsan-eup, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea by The Urban Nomad