Over time, only a few places thrive with their history, and some stand proudly by wrapping themselves with inglorious stabs, stories of humankind, and mythological happenings of the past. Hampi is such a place located in Karnataka province of India. Once destroyed, today it is protected by the world and is saved as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It fascinates its visitors with all sorts of experiences, and no one leaves it disappointed. Naughty hippie culture flourishes here, and many come here for just one reason - Chilling.
As a female solo traveler, I was excited and intimidated at the time of planning a sojourn to this boulder-strewn, majestic place of ruins, dotted with lakes and lush greenery. Here is my 4-day escapade to the destroyed capital of the historic Vijayanagara Empire.
Hampi is well-connected to rest of the country via a strong network of trains, flights and buses. The nearest bus stop from Bengaluru is in Hospet. After reaching Hospet, I took a vehicle to reach Hampi, 15 KM from there.
The first thing that caught my eye while on the way was the peculiar shape of rocks. Unlike other mountains which are formed by tectonic plate movement, these are a lot broken and arranged one over the other. It seemed as if someone deliberately kept them that way. Adjusting sight to this new pattern, I arrived at my destination in no more than half an hour.
Hampi is a popular tourist destination. Hence, it provides its tenants with an opportunity to build a sustainable living model by opening homestays, running food joints, becoming guides, riding autorickshaws, etc.
I chose a quiet place with a view of Tungabhadra just outside; this gave me a lot of space and energy to introspect. There are diverse options to stay in Hospet as well. It has lots of good hotels and food options and is well connected to the National highway.
You can choose a place according to your comfort, but the village’s real beauty resides outside, in the open. I rested for the day to rejuvenate for the coming day activities.
New day, new light, new opportunities. I rented a bike. House owners have contacts, and it was better to get a first-hand glimpse of Hampi from their experience. Most of the natives speak only Kannada, hence language could have been a predicament, but almost all shopkeepers know English, so it was not a big concern. I began my day with a strengthening breakfast and started my rendezvous with the beautiful village.
The village was plundered and destroyed in the early 14th century by the armies of Alauddin Khalji, and again in 1326 CE by the army of Muhammad bin Tughlaq. While walking through the mighty empire’s aisle, I witnessed cut elephant heads, broken legs of horses, burnt walls; this indicated how the empire cried till death. But on the positive side, who would have recognized Hampi for the way it is today, the place of ruins, had all of that did not occur.
Places to visit-
Temples are aplenty and follow Dravidian Architecture. Two main places to circles off from list are - Virupaksha and Vitthala Temple. These are well-known for their unmatched architectural style. The emperor, Shri Krishnadevraya built the Stone Chariot in the Vitthala Temple when he was fascinated with the Sun Temple’s Chariot in Konark.
Murals excellently demonstrate trenchant stories on the grand ceilings. Kamasutra positions, Krishna playing and dancing, pictures from ancient epic Ramayana, musical pillars, etc. show that people of that era must be firm disciples of culture, art, and life.
Matanga Hill is another famous spot for its links with Hindu Mythology- According to the epic Ramayana, monkey king Sugriva hid here along with Lord Hanuman, to save himself from wrath of brother Bali.
Along with these, Monolithic Bull, Lotus Mahal are other places to tour. Everything is at a reachable distance and can easily be covered in a day.
Soaking all history and roaming around for the whole day, I slowed down in the evening, enjoyed local food, charted a plan for the coming date with other tourists, called it a day, and finally, slept like a rock.
I woke up early in the morning, fully energized and thrilled to go to the other side of the river Tungabhadra, rented a bike, whizzed on the road: waved happily, took whatever came up - glancing and glistening with joy, enjoying lushly green paddy fields and banana plantations, feeling magic and sarcasm in the rocks - There are many tales around their existence; the Truth is, millions of years of erosion made the surface of the monoliths crack, split and eventually metamorphose into its present forms.
Anjaneya Hill was my first stop of the day, and I climbed 575 stairs to seek the blessings of Lord Hanuman. Many monkeys were playing and relaxing here and there, mostly harmless.
Then, in the village of Anegundi, I went to some old temples, engaged in meaningful conversations with locals, took a stop at a place or two. There is one more spot for adrenaline enthusiasts, Sanapur Lake which invites you for an exciting coracle ride and cliff jumping.
I was finally on the Hippie island. Bracing it with joy and hanging out with locals and foreigners, I did not realize when my day passed in a flick, and I rushed back to Hampi following the same route.
Last day was dedicated for shopping, scouting local markets, collecting bohemian accessories, and exploring famous food places.
Hampi reveals many things as you watch. I collected all the moments; still, I feel there is so much to uncover. It’s a strange kind of attachment. I will wait for the next trip, wishing that returning to Hampi is on the cards shortly.
From Hampi, I had a bus to catch in the evening. I was peaceful on that 8-hour journey and immersed myself in recollecting those four powerful days to finally conclude that - “Art” and “Travel” don’t just show us paintings, or sculptures, or temples, or magnificent buildings, these are ways to perceive how our ancestors lived and survived when technological advancements existed only in dreams. Seldom this strikes us, but maybe in our collective subconscious we know that in future, we will also be looked upon as ancestors, and that is why let us try to create a mark on our present by just being and helping each other devise best stories for the future.
Additional Read - First-time solo travel can be challenging, intimidating and questionable. Here are 10 on 10 tips for girls/women while travelling.
