On some days when the clock ticks 6 o'clock, I can't help but think about the gorgeous sunset by the Dabka riverside at that hour. If only I could walk to that hidden part of the forest to witness that overwhelming sight right now, I would. I would give up anything to watch the sun slowly go down, sit and look at the changing hues by the riverside, watch the peacocks glide over the stream, sit on a treetop and hear the bird scream all evening. It's only been a few days since I returned back home after spending a few days at Eco Harryman's Homestay in Pawalgarh Conservation Reserve and I've already made up my mind to go back again.
Just 5 hours away from Delhi, this is an ideal getaway for city-dwellers who wish to get away from it all on a weekend and spend some time amidst nature's bounty.
Pawalgarh in the books
Most of us have often thought about or even planned a vacation to Jim Corbett National Park in Uttarakhand. The total tourist footfall in Jim Corbett is almost 2 lacs per year. But quite close to the vast Corbett National Park Region is Pawalgarh Conservation Reserve which shares the same landscape and biodiversity but remains relatively untouched by the crowd. I have always been fascinated by the region around Kaladhungi and Ramnagar that can be termed as Corbett's backyard. However, it was the first time that I got a chance to explore this fascinating place called Pawalgarh.
If you look up on the internet, the related search about Pawalgarh would lead you to 'Bachelor of Pawalgarh', which was a 10 feet long tiger that was hunted down by Corbett in 1930 in this village by the Dabka riverside. Hunting might seem too dark a subject but that's how this village first found it's mention in Jim Corbett's best selling books. Bachelor of Pawalgarh is still fresh in the collective memories of people through the stories they have heard by their grandparents about 'Carpet Sahab' as the locals fondly called him. However no one remembers Jim Corbett here as a hunter. They remember him as the transformed conservationist who worked tirelessly to turn some part of this region into a India's first national park and worked closely with the locals to develop the region and make a dense canal system in the region which is still operational. The national park was then named Haily's National Park and was renamed after Jim Corbett after his death.
If you visit Pawalgarh, do visit the Forest Rest House Right at the entrance of the village where a 108 year old Semal tree stands tall. It was here that Corbett first rested and displayed Bachelor of Pawalgarh to this village folks.
Pawalgarh Prakrati Prahari
Pawalgarh Conservation Reserve was declared a protected area only as recently as in 2012. The group of villages that fall under this area are Pawalgarh, Mankanthpur, Kotabagh, Kyari, Bilparao, Gaibua and Chhoi. The region has river Kosi to it's west and river Dabka on the eastern part. The Khichdi river bisects the river from North to south and flows into the Dabka river.
Given the nascent stage at which this Conservation Reserve is, the locals have decided to make it a model village for a community based Eco Tourism. Pawalgarh Prakrati Prahari is a flagship brand created by the locals under which several homestays and community development programs operate. Homestays, organic farms, waste management initiatives and training of locals as naturalists are some of the initiative done by Pawalgarh Prakrati Prahari. Eco Harryman's Homestay is one of the first initiatives of PPP.
Eco Harryman's Homestay
Eco Harryman's is run by Mr Manohar Singh Manral who is a pioneer thinker and environmentalist. The people of Uttarakhand know him as a freedom fighter during the state freedom movement. Before this place was run as a homestay, it was a gathering spot for pioneers who charted down the idea of Uttarakhand and thought through the need of creating a separate hill state. If you get a chance to talk to him during your stay he will tell you all about the times he and his friends were picked up from this very house and sent to jail during Uttarakhand Movement. He now tends to a garden every morning where he has planted a tree after every friend of his who lost their lives during the freedom movement.
Sometime during the freedom struggle, Mr Manral also came up with the idea of a homestay collective which had to be started with the help of other villagers and friends. The word Harryman's stands for the initials of the names of all the people who were the members of this collective. Although most of the original members have now moved out and often over the years new members have joined but the initial name has stuck around.
Currently at Harryman's you'd find Mr Manral, his wife and son, Operations Manager Roopsi and a volunteer, Vaibhav who spend their day tending to the chores around the vast property. Their dog Lolly, whose brother Pop was recently killed by a leopard, is quite friendly with the guests. Harryman's is a family home in the truest sense and it's nothing like a hotel or even a commercial homestay (a flawed concept that has been mushrooming recently).
A Naturalist's Paradise
A total area of 58.25 sq km falls under Pawalgarh Conservation Reserve. There are 137 species of trees, 58 species of shrubs, 27 species of climbers and 52 species of herbs. There are also 32 species of mammals which include tigers, elephants, leopards, leopard cats, serow and ghoral and more. There is also an overwhelming variety of 365 birds that have been spotted here which make it one of the best birding spots in the country. There are 120 species of butterfly and the Pawalgarh Prakrati Prahari also going to organize Titli Festival, Uttarakhand's third butterfly festival from 24 to 27 October 2019.
Places to visit in the Pawalgarh Conservation Reserve Landscape
1. Safaris to Corbett and Pawalgarh Conservation Reserve can be organized on visitors request by the hosts.
2. Walk through the Chandni Depot all the way to the Dabka Riverside for a gorgeous sunset.
3. You can go cycling along with a guide through the forest trail and reach the end of the canal.
4. Visit Corbett's winter house in Choti Haldwani which is 20 kms from Pawalgah. There's also a museum at this house which can tell you a lot about the life and time of Corbett.
5. You can also visit Corbett Falls which is only 18km away from Pawalgah.
6. Guests who are interested in birding can also plan their stay solely for this hobby. Their plenty of birds and trained naturalists in the village who can take you on a guided tour.
7. Durga Jaivik Farm is an organic farm run by a women's only collective in the village. Mrs Savitri is happy to tell the guests all about the work of this initiative.
Accomodation
Three Twin sharing rooms
One triple sharing room
One dormitory for 8 guests
Guests are also welcomed to pitch their own tents in the private property
Price of food and accommodation is INR 1500 per person which includes three meals a day. Washrooms are not attached to the rooms. The guests are expected to contribute to the conservation activities in the area, help the host family in everyday chores. They can also put forth and work on their ideas to develop the surroundings in a sustainable way. It's important to know that you must not treat this homestay as a guest house.
How to reach?
Pawalgarh is 18kms from Ramnagar in district Nainital on the Ramnagar Kotabagh Road. Ramnagar is connected to Delhi and Lucknow by overnight express trains. Visitors also have an option of arriving at Haldwani (45km), Kathgodam (50km) or Moradabad (85km) Railway stations. The rest of the journey to Pawalgarh can be made by road.
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