Ask any person who loves to ride where they want to take their machine for a ride at-least once and a major share of them will reply "The Himalayas". I, for one, didn't want to think differently and had this dream of riding through the mountains and onto the top of the world. Well, what would you do to make a trip push forward from the planning stage? We, book a package without anywhere we don't get much refund if we change our minds in between. Take this as my tip to all those who have been planning to go to Goa or the Himalayas; Lock yourself up once you have made your mind for the first time, and deal with it later or end up planning the trips forever.
Thus everything fell into place and the day has come. The much-awaited trip to the "top of the world". I packed my bags from Coimbatore with a bunch of people starting from Cochin and Bangalore. Delhi is our rendezvous point from where our package starts. Yep, it's a package because we didn't want to burn our heads on planning so we left it to the experts.
Its 11 PM and the full batch has landed and filled up for the journey ahead to Manali. With 8 people in the lot, we were greeted by our charioteers with their chariots; two swift desires. Though a bit late, we were having jet lag and were excited at the same time. Expecting arrival at Manali by 1 PM, we planned to roam around and make a connection with our rides from Manali. But as usual, plans were just plans. Due to a taxi issue, we reached Manali at 6 in the evening instead of the planned 1.
But the journey, though longer than usual, was like the required warm-up before a workout. From cityscapes to farmlands to violently rushing rivers to huge mountains, it had everything. It just raised our hopes for the upcoming days. We had amazing Dhaba food, stopped by the shores of Beas near Kullu for a chilling and amazing view, had numerous tea stops and god knows how many shutter clicks.
Hotel Siyal Heights, our lovely stay right in the middle of the town of Manali, with Beas roaring at a hearable distance, we checked in at 7 in the evening. Our time to roam and get connected to bikes have passed. Its time for the much-needed rest before the dreamy 8 days of our lives.
Day 1 of the ride. We were up earlier than usual, ready to get our hands on the machines that will be taking us to heights in the coming days. All the bikes were collected and we met our crew of guides and mechanics with an ISUZU backup van. We aim to cover 140 Kms to reach Jispa by evening crossing the Rohtang La. Drizzle in the morning gave us all a raised eyebrow as the season we are here is known for heavy rainfall and landslides. But to our luck, things went well after a few kilometres and we were welcomed by the green meadows and white glaciers of the great Himalayas. You need to get passes to Rohtang La and our operators had made all the arrangements. The passes were verified at Gulaba check-post and the convoy of 5 Royal Enfields, an X Pulse and an ISUZU were allowed to proceed further into the height of Himalayas. The views around were so breathtaking and the increasing altitude indeed makes you skip a few beats at times. Thick white fog with the greenery around, hot tea and a steaming cup of magi is a match made in heaven.
We were a bit behind our schedule and hence we were still on road at 8 pm in the night also. A few times when I was at the front of the convoy, a glance at the 4 other round headlights behind forming a line and beaming in perfect cones in pitch dark was more than enough to give goosebumps. We checked in to Hotel Yak in Jispa at around 9. It was cold and we were exhausted. We've got a very long ride tomorrow and hence spending not too much time talking, everyone crashed onto their beds.
We woke up to the gurgling sound of the Bhag river at a distance where our eyes can reach. The longest ride of all the days is happening today covering a huge 390 Kms to reach Leh. After a hot tea, and a refreshing walk along the river bank collecting a few seasoned pebbles, the ride started. The excitement was building up as we were told to hurry a bit as we have our first river crossing coming up that day and more towards a sunny afternoon could be real trouble as the glaciers could pump more water into the highway. The excitement was double with the ride along the Bhag river and crossing it (over a bridge of course) before beginning our ascend. We could see people on cycling and walking expeditions on the route. Huge respect for them.
As we moved further, we left the greens behind for cold deserts and white peaks. Crossed the Baralacha pass (16,043 feet) to reach the border of Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh UT, Sarchu. Our visiting time had one more peculiarity, it was the second day after rule was made to split J&K into two UTs. We took enough rest, had our lunch and started towards the Ghata loops through the scenic planes and mountains of Sarchu. Ghata consists of 21 hairpin bents that takes you higher up to the Nakee la at a height of 15647 Ft. It was only when I was making my Vlogs, came to know about the story of a unlucky cleaner of a lorry who had to fight for life at this pass only to fail. The local people had made a temple for him, following few un-natural incidents at the last bent where travelers offered water at this location. Good thing we didn't know this at the time of riding because of a particular reason that will soon come up in this post.
Next up from pang was the scenic more planes. It was coincidental that we reached the planes at sunset and the views where simply beyond any words can describe. The machines had started showing their resistance to the low oxygen levels in these areas missing a few engine beats at times. But later only we knew that they were only signs. Tanglang La, standing tall at 17,480 ft above the sea level, had some surprises for us. It showed its full wrath on us. Showed us the real taste of these areas and how harsh they can be though it was only 6 in the evening. The layers of dresses had already surrendered to the extreme conditions here.Staying back for only 10 mins, we were struggling to climb down this mighty pass. Going forward at the maximum speed we can take in these mountains, we were at our peaceful resort at Shey,Leh by 11pm. We have arrived. "Leh, where you can get sun stroke and frost bite at the same time" - read a few boards on our way by the Border Roads Organiation (BRO).
Pang was our next break point, or rather chai point after crossing Nakee La and Lachung La at heights of 15647 ft and 16,598 ft respectively. By this time we been traversing through roads which was just a clearing for vehicles to go and has no sign of tarmac on it. The army convoys and tourist vehicles or bikers are the only time you see people in these places.Hats off to our army people for their time spend in these areas. There are a lots of shortcuts to bypass the hairpin bents but most of them are so steep and offroad that even if you are a seasoned biker, you should be thinking twice before taking them. All the way, BRO will accompany you with innovative boards giving you tips for your own safety when you are on these mountains.
3rd day into the ride and this is our resting day, or rather, acclimatizing day. Our body is used to the atmospheric conditions of sea levels or close to it. As we go higher to these altitudes, we should give our body time to adjust with these low air, low pressure surroundings. Thus the plan was to roam around Leh market and a few tourist attractions in the town of Leh. It was more like a lazy day for us. We just roamed around the resort. River Indus was at a hearing distance flowing with full force. Our stay was well hidden from the crowded world and there was a small rivulet near it, that supposedly joins Indus a few meters away. Though we didn't find any access to the main river, the rivulet was fun enough to spend much time. By afternoon, after a drizzle was just over, we headed to Leh market. Main aim was to try some authentic Kashmiri food items for lunch. And being a tea lover, the Kashmiri Khawa just made a new fan out of me. Khawa is a drink, in the tea category, that's made of green tea infused with cinnamon and cardamom and served with a touch of saffron and garnished with almonds. The yellow drink will always have a special position in my favorite tea list.
Next up was the Leh Palace, standing high overlooking the city of Leh. Built in 1600, the palace was said to be abandoned when Dogra forces took control of the Ladakh region in mid 19th century. The palace is now maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. You get visit a museum inside the palace, go to the top floors of the structure that looks like its been carved out of the surrounding rocks to get an astonishing view of the city. A look from here reminded me of a typical setting in the Assassin's creed series, with layers houses and walkways between them, where people moved and sellers selling stuffs.
Shanti stupa, built in 1991 to promote world peace and to commemorate 2500 years of Buddhism. This two level structure is a must visit when you are in Ladakh, especially in the evening for getting a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape.
The big day. Day 4 of the ride. The day we will be conquering "Highest Motor-able Pass" in the world, The mighty Kardung La. We've been preparing for this for the past two days, from taking diamox once a day to staying one full day getting around Leh. Due to rules, we switched our HP registered bikes with new J&K registered bikes.
Its comparatively short ride today to reach Hunder in Nubra Valley, the land of Siachen Warriors.We had our first stop at South Pullu check-post, where all visitors need to give their details such as Name, vehicle number etc. After negotiating serpent like roads we took enough time here to get refreshed. Most of the road has tarmac and the remaining will be laid in some time(it might even be finished as I'm writing this), so riding was not so aching except for the final stretch of a few Kms.
Kardung La at an altitude of 17982 ft is known for its unpredictable climatic conditions. Luckily for us, it stayed sunny through out though we had to wear 3 layers of dresses to stay warm! Due to the sunny days, snow here were restricted only to the mountain caps. But we could see a few glaciers spitting water throughout the way. It was a moment of pride and achievement on seeing the Kardungla achievement board here. We could feel our hearts pumping hard as it demanded more oxygen on climbing a few steps. A big salute to our army people who are camped here and to those who are at altitudes higher than this place.
Spending some 20-30 mins at the highest motor-able pass in the world, we started descending towards Hunder. The mountain pass took us to the beautiful natural landscaping at the Kardung village. All desert, a mountain stream in between, perfectly seasoned round pebbles thrown randomly in the streams and green patches along the banks of the stream, it was truly a paradise on earth. But only the localites know how isolated they are from the outer world. Riding on, the sand dunes of Nubra became visible. The road running parallel to the dunes took us to our camping site, a hearing distance away from the Shyok river.
Today's ride is to the beautiful Pangong Tso lake after doing a double humped camel ride on the sand dunes of Nubra and a visit to the Diskit Monastery. We were told to hurry and start as soon as possible from Nubra as we need to cross an even worse river en route. Hence started early. In-fact so early that we reached the camel safari place even before it opened. A few minutes there, with Ajay's biking skills and some photo sessions, the safari opened and the camels marched to the starting area. It took a while before getting them prepared for the ride. A 10-15 min long ride over the dunes and we started to Diskit monastery.
Diskit monastery or the Diskit gompa is the oldest monastery in the Nubra valley. There is a 32 m tall statue of Maitreya Buddha looking at the Shyok river, from a hilltop just below the monastery. I did a small study out of curiosity and Maitreya is regarded as the future Buddha of this world, who achieves complete enlightenment and imparts pure dharma. The statue is said to be built for world peace. You will get a glorious view of the Nubra valley from top of the monastery.
It was all blue when we arrived here in Pangong Tso. It was truly a wonder. We camped under the starry sky on the banks of the Pangong Tso. This lake is shared by both India and China, with almost 60% of it in the Tibetan autonomous region China. We could see milestones showing the distance to Beijing is 3000+ Kms from this place. That's like travelling from the southern end to the northern end of India. Since this place runs entirely on solar power, the camps shut down their power at night where you don't require much power to keep you cool. We spend the night under the starry nights on the banks of the famous Pangong Tso.
But then the twist happened. Mountains had decided to start a new water source in these areas, drowning the road for some distance. This was unexpected! But it was a spread out river with more gravel thrown around. Grab on to the handles of machines firmly and give em the push and it'll be done. We all were back on the road cut by the river. We were welcomed by a wild horses, wild yaks and Himalayan marmots as we passed through the Changthang wild life sanctuary. And finally we arrived at the famous, color changing lake on top of the world.
A new day. Pangong is not bluish now. Sunlight has given the surrounding mountains a golden touch. We were on time for the sunrise, but not on time for Pangong. Sun was already up by the time we were up. This is the day we start our travel back to where we started. After roaming around the place and visiting the place where 3 Idiots climax was shot, we started back to Leh.
Chang La at an altitude of 17,585 feet is the 3rd highest motor-able road. We could see a huge ice structure at a short distance from us. It was amazing and terrifying at the same time. There was no sun even it was noon. It was cloudy and fog has started to block the vision. After a refreshing Kashmiri Khawa from the nearby cafe, we started our descend.We were back in our resort in Leh before sunset.
7th day into the ride. It's independence day. 1st Independence day at Ladakh UT and Lt. Colonel M S Dhoni would be hoisting the tri-colour at Leh. We were excited and determined to go, but by the time everyone got ready we were too late. Spending some time in Leh market and doing some quick shopping, return our J&K registered bikes we started back towards Manali. Our planned destination was Sarchu. But because a few members in the group was already depending on the backup oxygen in the van, and since Sarchu is known for its heavy oxygen shortage at night, the plan was changed to reach Jispa by night at any cost. Little did we know that it was a bit of an extreme decision.
We were supposed to start well in the morning. But due to a bit of settlements to be done at Leh, we start very late by afternoon. We knew we wouldn't make it to Jispa, but though we'd give it a try. We traced our way back, this time crossing Tanglangla before it took its extreme forms, crossed 'more plains' almost at sunset and took out first break at Pang. We were at out max throttles possible with only Jispa infront of us. We filled up ourselves at Pang where we met a guide with a group of Canadians en route to Leh. "I wouldn't suggest a ride to Jispa at this time of the day. It'll be risky. You have to cross three high altitude passes; Lachung La, Nakee La, and Baralacha La. You better stay in one of these dhabas and proceed in the morning." - he suggested upon hearing our plan for the day. But we wanted to give it a try so that we don't have to cover all the distance tomorrow.
With the refreshments done we started off towards Sarchu. We were crossing the Ghata loops at 10 in the night with only the headlights visible in the entire visible horizon with the moon shedding its lights from above. Thank god I knew the story about the Ghata loops only after reaching home. We took our next break at Sarchu. Had our dinner and lied down for while. One more pass we we'll be at our destination.
But these mountains had some other plans. It was raining for some time it seems and it started drizzling when we were almost near Baralacha La. But the mountains had already made their move, a new river has been formed across the road and a few vehicles are stuck in it. Though they were narrow, and one could easily cross it by walking, it was deep enough to trap bikes and cars. As usual, the ISUZU came to the rescue. After attempting for more than an hour, the route was cleared. The bikes were taken to the other side, thanks to the himalayan experts in our team and the people from other stuck vehicles as it was beyond our expertise.
As if making a new river across the road was not enough, our surprise was not over. It started raining. So heavy that we had to bring our speeds to 20Kmph. Whats more what was an amazing scenic route has now become the aftermath of a riot by nature. It was all rocks and pebbles thrown on the road, aided by the rains to block our smooth going. We have seen enough and thus ended the day's trip at ZingZingBar, a kilometers after Baralacha La.
People say god is everywhere. In that particular night, when clock was almost about to hit 2 at midnight, the lovely man in that roadside dhaba took the form of god for us. Completely drenched and our tooth drumming to the cold winds of the mountains, the dhaba bhai took out card boards from his stock and burned it. Our legs were literally on the flames yet we felt nothing. A few cups of hot tea and hot maggi heated up from inside too. All we wanted was rest. We crashed onto the beds in dhaba only to wake up to the morning sunlight.
A look around us made us question about the happenings at the night. It was like the place didn't want to give away the fact that it was heavily raining the other day. A quick breakfast and we rushed to Jispa crossing the very first river that we crossed on our way up. A quick fresh up at Jispa and we were on our way back to Manali. The rains gave us company right from the Rohtang La. The mountains had already started to give up to the rains. Huge blocks had happened due to landslides. What was a bi directional road on our way is now just a one way. we took the advantage on being two wheeler and left all the traffic behind. But land slides welcomes us all along till we reached Manali. Its time for the much needed rest as its our journey back home tomorrow.
Last day here at Manali. It was drizzling all the day. Ajai bhai gave us a unique experience at a natural hot water spring pool in Manali. Its a divine feeling to take bath in this natural hot water in these cold areas. Bikes were all returned and we were in the middle of shopping when suddenly we got the message. Due to the continuous rains, our bus to Delhi has been preponed to start some 2 hours early at 5PM itself.
We rushed to the hotel, took our bags. Did shopping just for the souvenirs and ran to the bus stand on the banks of angry Beas. The bus people were waiting for us and asked us to hurry as the water levels are about to rise and we will have to start before it might happen.
The bus started towards Delhi. I was raining. We didn't get time for lunch in the rush. So we almost bought "an entire fruit stall" when bus stopped after Kullu. By this time google has started pushing notification on the rising levels in Beas.
It was almost 3 in the morning I was suddenly awake as I started sweating. The bus AC is switched off and the bus is parked. Still half asleep my mind pushed me to sleep again telling it might be some temporary rest stop or something. But this was an unplanned experience these mountains had for us! We were awake at around 7 and we still on the same place. The sun had made it easier for us to conclude things. It's a traffic block! It took us sometime to understand the situation. Landslide! We were trapped in between multiple landslides with no way to go forward or backward.
Being a victim in the landslide is a different and a bit terrifying thing. Especially when the happenings in the recent years in my hometown and other places in Kerala and other states came rushing to our minds. No one knew when help would arrive. Luckily we were stopped near dabha. Lucky for them too for their income that day. It was a long queue most of them buses towards Chandigarh with tourists. Google was pushing notifications about numerous landslides in HP and rivers taking up the land.
Thus the first high altitude pass was conquered. Rohtang La standing at 13058 Ft above sea level was giving us a taste of what to expect when going forward. Cold weather with light to medium drizzle was a bit harsh on us for a first-timer at these heights. We thanks the makers of our machines for giving it such a huge furnace whose heat was "just right here" to keep blood flowing smoothly through our veins. A few hot corns, some hot tea, and some yummy momos from the local vendors heated us from the inside also. A few wild horses were seen roaming here and there. We got to talk to a few momo-wallahs who used to travel every day from Manali to Rohtang and back for their business.
Thus we stopped at the first hurdle the mountain king had left for any person who eyes at conquering it. Our first river crossing. Though our lead guide Ajay bhai assured us that its "fine" that day as the water levels as not as bad, seeing a few other vehicles before us crossing it overpowered the assuring words. But a how can a Himalayan ride without these challenges be complete? We all geared up for the crossing. Agreeing to cross one by one, Ajay showed us how to tackle the crossing which happened to be at a right angled bent filled with gravel. Crossing it was indeed a proud moment and brought up our confidence a level higher.
The nature as an artist shows off its work all around you from here. Golden deserts on one side suddenly changing to while peaks on the other side and the back drops and setting sun coloring the sky giving an amazing vibe. We met a few army officers, from Kerala, who got posting in these areas and spending their day off at Leh. By sunset, we started back to our rooms, making our way though the dusty and windy roads. Its time for campfire and kebabs.
A small walk in the green meadows nearby, that's how we started our day. Our camping site was set amidst a cauliflower field. Truly a rural and peaceful setting. To complete our experience, we even got a glance at the the Indian Air Force's Hercules aircraft gliding through the valleys. It was goosebumps, especially after watching national geographic's documentary on the Siachen Soldiers.
We negotiated the serpent bents and steep roads further into the valley. There were a lot of places where you could feel like the road touches the sky and goes beyond. You wont know what is on the other end unless you reach the spot where it touches the sky. A lot of breathtaking moments. Forward we go, the more violent Shyok became on our sides. And we reached the notorious river crossing. It was indeed scary, especially after watching how the bikes before us crossed it. Add to it a tempo traveler stuck mid way the river. Again people were telling that its a lucky day since water flow is less. I don't even want to imagine how it would be on a full flow as a miss in these waters takes you directly to the angry Shyok running below.
It was mostly gravel and a bit forceful water flow than we have experienced in our previous river crossing. But everyone manged to get to the other side with the help of the people around. And the ISUZU came as a rescue vehicle for the stuck traveler. Everyone's done with the challenge, road is cleared and its time to move on.
The return journey was crossing Chang La, "3rd highest motor-able pass". As we started climbing higher, chill has started to creep into our bodies. In these chilling climate, we saw one army camp several Kms away from Chang La, has placed hot tea and hot water for the passengers taking this road. It was divine, a blessing in these harsh climates. Forcing our machines to churn out more power with whatever oxygen they are given, we finally reached the Chang La.
After one full day at the place, at around 4 in the evening, authorities came with vehicles to clear the mud and rocks from the road. We could not proceed forwards and had to take another route to Chandigarh and then Delhi. We already missed our flights. Thus when we were supposed to be at our home, we almost reached Delhi.
It was an all in one package. The king of all travels I have ever done and will be doing for some time now. We got to experience all climatic conditions in that one trip. We were on the road for 8 days, covering more than 1500Kms. There were different terrains, people, cultures. It is beyond explanations. It is something to be experienced at-least once. But I'd recommend you to plan your trip just before the monsoon season in these areas for a trouble free trip. I hope that I could go back to these mountains one more time or even more if possible. Till then, all the memories shall work together to keep the hopes high.