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Today’s first stop was Tabo Monastery, this is mix of old and new culture. There are new prayer halls constructed and old monastery preserved. The old structure is made is mud and has paintings depicting tales made with natural vegetables colors. There were also two shops in premises to buy souvenirs, the shop got good collection of spiti special items.
Next we stopped by at Dhankar, there is monastery and also a lake at an elevation of 13582ft. The trek to the lake was 3km, we started in the mid noon with sun scorching rite over our head. With less oxygen it was not easy, the ascend was steep with slipping mud grains. But we finally made it in 1.5hrs, the view on the way was amazing but not at the destination. Half of the lake has dried up, leaving behind only a small pond. The water was chilled due to the high altitude, we took we pics around the lake and the stupa. The descend was quick but we need to be extra careful due to the steep and slippery path.
The Dhankar monastery is nearby to the lake, it was small compare to the one we visited in morning. There was a small escape from we could see the view from the top. The monastery was at a great height and there was river flowing down with mountains all around. This view was the relief to our exhausted souls. We ate at a local eatery and started towards the pin valley. Pin valley is the starting point for the Pin Parvati trek, has good landscape on the way. We gave on the idea of going to pin and took U turn and stopped by near the Spiti river.
It was sunset time in the valley, the water was shimmering with the sun beams. The chilled breeze and ice cold water flowing with a soothing sound was relaxing. We sat for a while on the shore and started towards Kaza.
For next two nights we stay at Kaza hotel, as we entered the city it was evident that this is the largest city in Spiti. There are many shops, cafes and hotels along with local houses. We passed by the beautiful monastery of Kaza, on the other side of the road there were stupas and the petrol pump at the highest altitude.
Tomorrow will be local sight-seeing with some buffer time to relax.
Post breakfast at the hotel, we started for langza, the home to the huge Buddha statue overlooking the mountains, the statue is said to be 1000 years old. The place is sparsely populated, there are few homestays at the langza village. The statue at such an height and no other structure around is just stunning.
Next is the highest village connected with the motorable road of the world at the height of 15000ft- Komic. As we reached the village, we saw Halo- the appearance like rainbow around the sun. There is a café with the board of the highest motorable village. The Monastery is among the highest altitude gompas in India, known mainly as Tangyud Monastery. The monk there explained us about the history of gompas and different sectors of Buddhism.
Now we were ready to send postcards from the highest post-office of the world- Hikkim. It is a small hamlet with a small post office and one post master. We wrote postcards on our home address and to friends from here. The post cards are always available at the office so not required to be bought before.
All these places have got small cafes serving tea, maggie and snacks. This brings our day to end and we proceed back to Kaza. From the top we can see whole Kaza between the mountains and the spiti river. It was only noon, for lunch we decided to go to Café.
After searching we found Sol Café, ambience was colorful with flags and many info about conservation of place. It is run by Ecosphere- an NGO, which works for a sustainable living for the people of Spiti. We tried local dishes like barley pancake, barley smoothie and seabuckthorn tea. And later went to Kaza market.
The market has lot of brass and silver items, there was good choice of shalws, stoles and local woollen items. Before dark we returned back to our hotel, it was the first time in the trip when we had time to sit back and talk to each other. It was a fun evening with chit chats around and getting to know each other better.
Post dinner walk has become a ritual, today we dragged two more people along and ‘thoda sa aur’ we went till the Kaza monastery to the ‘I love Spiti’ glowing sign and took photos. Also the sky was starry, not very clear but yes we can see milky way. Tomorrow, our stay is not only at high altitude but also with negative degree in camp.
We head towards Chandrataal today, on the way we stopped at Key Monastery. The time we reached at 9pm the monks were chanting prayers, the atmosphere was full of positive energy. Here you can stay with monks and meditate, due to corona this facility is closed, at the foot of monastery there is a small stay available where we met a Spanish women who has come here to learn Dharma. During winter, the most of the monks migrate to the lower altitude to avoid the harsh winter.
We crossed the Chicham Bridge, the highest suspension bridge in Asia, it connects Kibber and Chicham. You look down the bridge, the gorge is steep below and this cuts down the distance by 40km between the two village. We stopped at Losar for lunch, the landscape has changed to the snow capped mounatins. There is only mud roads with mountains on one side and trench on other.
We passed through Kunzum La, which connect Spiti valley with Lahaul. It is at an elevation of 15059ft, the view around was spectacular. There is a Mata mandir at center with flags all around to pray for the travellers.
It was some time before sunset when we reached Chandrataal, we walked a little distance to reach the lake. The first view of the lake from top was amazing. The lake was just spectacular with different color of blue and green shimmering with the setting sun. The weather was cold and we knew it is gona dip below zero in night. By the time we got our tents, it was extremely cold, the hot tea came to rescue. We layered up with more clothes, the steaming hot dinner was delicious and the best we could expect at such raw place.
It was completely dark, and milky way was better visible and yes…we again saw the shooting star. The night was cold at -4 C degree, the temp inside and outside the camp was same. We got two thick blankets to cover ourself.
The night was shivering and so is the morning. The clouds were hanging on the mountains and there was fresh snow at high peaks. The hot aloo-puri for breakfast was just delicious. Now its time to head back, now starts our return journey.
We passed by Batal and stopped at Chatru for lunch, passing through multiple iron bridges and dirt tracks, we reached atul tunnel. Passing through tunnel, you feel proud of the amazing engineering. It was a smooth journey, the landscape has changed to green foggy mountains now. We reached manali by eary evening, we did some shopping from Mall roadand head towards delhi to catch flights back home.
This was an amazing road trip with landscape changing every bit and second, the monasteries has got peace and tranquillity, simple and sweet people, delicious local food and many things to shop for.
Food you should try out: Thupka, momos, thenthuk, barley items and seabuckthorn tea
Things to buy: Yak and woollen shawls, stoles, flags, message flags, brass bells, silver jewellery
Accommodations:
Chitkul- The Himalayan tribe – among the best at the shore of river
Kalpa- Tab exotica
Tabo- White lotus Homestay
Kaza- Ri Dzong
Chandrataal- we booked with UC camps but as the snow started most the camps left and we were adjusted into another one
All these stays were good with basic facilties. Mine favourite are chitkul and Tabo stay, they were offbeat.
We booked our package with https://spitiadventure.com/ . The package was well planned and we were taken well care of. They even called us in middle of trip to know our whereabouts. The driver made sure we reached safely and on time, local guy who knows the place well.
See you in the next trip……
Happy travelling!!
