Living like the Maharajahs is what most Indians will associate with "luxury". Their lifestyles were legendary and there was no compromise to their comfort even while travelling in the heat and dust of India. With the railways being the most efficient way of traveling across the length and breadth of the country a century ago, most of the rulers of the erstwhile princely states of India traveled in style in their own trains, and if not the whole train, then in their own special coaches that were attached to the normal trains. This ensured the same comfort for them as their palaces.
Among the hundreds of trains in India are several luxury trains that give a glimpse to the style in which the royalty used to travel. This is an account of a journey on one of these - the Deccan Odyssey in December 2015.
First some basic info about the train - In addition to the 11 coaches that accommodate about 88 in luxurious cabins, the train also had multi-cuisine restaurants, bar, lounge, libraries, a conference room, a gym and spa. But the real charm lay with the superb staff who made the journey truly memorable.
We got a taste of the lives of celebrities with exclusive and often red-carpeted entrances, access to palaces and forts that are off-limits to normal tourists and knowledgeable guides at each location who showed us new aspects of previously visited places. From the moment we joined the trip to the time we deboarded from the train, our every need was anticipated and taken care off. Carefree and Pampered best describe our experience.
Named the "Indian Sojourn" ours was a seven day tour across north India that gave us a temporary access to a royal India with exclusivity within popular tourist spots.
We were welcomed aboard the Deccan Odyssey from an exclusive platform of CST now CSMT. The train halts at exclusive platforms to accommodate traditional welcome ceremonies in each city on the itinerary. It moves only at nights as the days are devoted to specially curated excursions. The first evening was a casual exploration of the various facilities on board. We discovered that there were only 12 passengers in the entire train. Each cabin had a specific valet to take care of all needs during the stay. World class food was prepared fresh on board from scratch as per requirements. With beds alongside the glass windows, one could lie down and watch stars speeding by.
Next morning we disembarked at the capital of the Gaekwads to a Gandhian welcome with khadi and spun yarn. A luxury bus transported us to the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the only complete and unchanged pre-Mughal Islamic city in India with buildings representing a perfect blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture which was a model for later mosque architecture in India.
Post a leisurely lunch on board the Deccan Odyssey we were taken to the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum, originally constructed as a school for the Maharaja's children. Today, art lovers can view a large number of works of art displayed in the museum including a collection of the paintings of Raja Ravi Varma and other renowned European Masters as well as a collection of sculptures in marble and bronze. Next we were taken for a high tea at the resplendent Lakshmi Vilas Palace, which is still the residence of the Royal family. The traditional welcome given to us on the lawns and the entrance made us feel as if we were guests for the palace itself. Reputedly four times the size of Buckingham Palace, its overwhelming Durbar Hall boasts a Venetian mosaic floor, Belgian stained glass windows and walls with intricate mosaic decorations. A special folk performance was arranged for us in the Durbar Hall as we savored special delicacies from the Royal kitchen.
The Deccan Odyssey rolled into Udaipur early in the morning. Set on the shores of the placid Lake Pichola, Udaipur, known as the City of Lakes, is easily one of the most romantic cities of India, surrounded by scenic hills. We enjoyed breakfast admiring the picturesque landscape of the Aravali hills. We were welcomed with a performance by one Udaipur's oldest traditional dancers. With an expert we set out to visit the famous City Palace, the largest palace complex in Rajasthan, with its scalloped arches, fretted balconies, and cupolas, which also houses the spectacular Crystal Gallery. Our guide dispelled many of the myths surrounding the Rajputs as built up by generations of Bollywood movies. We got access to parts of the palace that are out of bounds for the common public. The tour of this magnificent city was completed with a boat cruise on the tranquil waters of Lake Pichola.
This was one of the most memorable days of the entire trip as the Deccan Odyssey traveled through the stronghold of the Marwar region. The morning was at leisure on board the Deccan Odyssey, but those who wished to step out were given the option of visiting a weavers’ village, a potters’ village as well as a Bishnoi village. An expert guide from the local community gave us a peep into their lives where traditions and skills are passed down unchanged through generations.
We returned for lunch on board the Deccan Odyssey looking forward to setting out once again to explore the magnificent city of Jodhpur. The traditional dance show organized on the platform for us was so colorful and beautifully done that people from other trains actually got down to check out what was going on.
Jodhpur is also known as the Blue City, after the vivid blue-painted houses that surround the Mehrangarh Fort. Set like a pearl amidst the stark desert, this former capital of Marwar boasts some of the finest architecture from the Rajput era, renowned for its superb forts and glorious palaces. A walk through the bustle of the Old Clock Tower market, past old havelis and houses, took us to the magnificent Mehrangarh Fort, the pride of Jodhpur. Once again we were taken through parts of the fort that remain out of bounds for tourists. We could marvel undisturbed at the intricate carvings and expansive courtyards of the several palaces inside as well as the amazing view of palanquins, arms, paintings, costumes and the arts and crafts of a bygone era at the museum.
In the evening we enjoyed a sumptuous Marwar style barbeque specially arranged for us at the Mehrangarh Fort. With a mesmerizing dance and music performance against the setting sun it felt like being in a grand film set.
We were welcomed in proper Mughal style at Agra. After a leisurely breakfast on board, we were taken to the Taj Mahal through the VIP entrance. This was not our first visit to the Taj but the most enlightening one yet. Our guide pointed out many interesting facets to the great monument hidden in plain sight.
After lunch at the Radisson Blue, the tour of Agra continued with a visit to Itmad-ud-Daulah, a marble mausoleum built by Nur Jahan, the wife of Emperor Jahangir, in memory of her father, Ghiyas Beg. Sometimes called the ‘Baby Taj’, it is beautifully conceived in white marble, mosaic and lattice.
Thereafter we proceeded to Agra Fort, another outstanding example of Mughal architecture, and the seat of Mughal reign and administration for three generations. A visit to the Diwan-e-Aam, ‘Hall of Public Audience’ and the Royal Pavilions is not to be missed.
Day 6 Sawai Madhopur - Ranthambore National Park
Sawai Madhopur, in Rajasthan is the alighting point for the famous Ranthambore National Park, and India’s efforts to conserve the dwindling tiger population can be seen here. The park is one of the finest tiger reserves in the country and the most likely place to spot one of these majestic animals. After an early morning breakfast we set out for our morning game drive.
It was our lucky day, as we spotted a tiger lolling around lazily in the sun and another feverishly hunting down deer around the lake! Ranthambore is home to several other species as well; we saw see herds of Chital and Sambhar deer as well as wild boar, Nilgai antelope, chinkara gazelles, sloth bear, leopards and crocodiles with extensive bird life including jungle fowl, partridges, quails, the crested serpent eagle, woodpeckers, flycatchers etc. There are also water birds like storks, ducks and geese at the lakes and waterholes.
After a leisurely lunch on the Deccan Odyssey we set out for a village safari and then proceeded for a high tea and an enthralling magic show at the Vivanta Sawai Madhopur Lodge, the former hunting lodge of the erstwhile royal family of Jaipur.
Legendary for the triumphs of its proud Rajputs, Jaipur, the City of Victory, is surrounded by the rugged Aravali hills - crowned by formidable forts - and beautiful palaces, mansions and gardens. After breakfast we were driven to Maharaja Mansingh’s 17th century masterpiece - the Amber Fort that overlooks the beautiful Maota Lake. The fort is a sprawling complex of courtyards, halls and rooms adorned with beautiful paintings, precious stones and mirrors - in the Sheesh Mahal or ‘Hall of Mirrors’, a single lamplight reflected by hundreds of mirrors, lights up the entire room, creating a dazzling effect.
En-route to Amber Fort we visited the Palace of Winds, otherwise known as the Hawa Mahal, famous for its intricate pink sandstone carving and a beautiful view of the city. Thereafter we visited the famous City Palace of Jaipur, an overwhelming complex of exquisite palaces, gardens and courtyards, decorative art and carved doorways. The palace museum houses collections of rare manuscripts, armoury, costumes and carpets. A short walk took us to the adjacent Jantar Mantar, the astronomical observatory built in the 18th century by Sawai Jai Singh.
After lunch at the Taj Rambaug Palace we went on to explore the colourful bazaars of the Pink City.
After a day of exploration we returned to a surprise Bollywood night party arranged for on-board the Deccan Odyssey with special gifts for each of us. Our last night on the train was a long party.
Day 8 Delhi
Post breakfast we disembarked at Delhi Railway Station and bid farewell to the Deccan Odyssey as our royal passage through the grand vistas of India came to an end. In addition to the unique souvenirs we were given at each place we came back with a load of memories.
For us it was a railroad journey like no other and possibly the rail trip of a lifetime.