Crazy young girl goes solo to Ladakh on her CBR 250.. This traveloque is about a 21 year old lady rider who rode to Ladakh on her bike . It was a sudden plan . Its a bikers dream to take his bike to the worlds highest motorable road.. I completed my dream.. It took me 12 days . 18th september to 30th september . Went via Shrinagar and came back via Manali Leh highway.
Day 1-New Delhi to Amritsar(4.30 a.m. to 10.30 p.m.) {18th september}
As this solo trip was a sudden planned ride I had just some closed ones for my flag off at 4 in the morning on 18th of September.
After some photo session at Mukarba chowk and some tips from my experienced rider buddy (Kuldeep Singh), I was ready to face the unknown hurdles and challenges waiting ahead.
Took two stops on my way to Amritsar . First after crossing some 220 kms in 2.5 hours and then at mc donalds jalandhar for quick breakfast.
Reached Amritsar and finally lodged in Holiday Comfort Hotel nearby golden temple.
After couple of hours I was admiring the beauty of the most sacred shrine of the sikhs "The Golden Temple". The main temple was floating in mid of Amrit sarovar . i got in the queue to get in the main hall. Prayed for the strength i needed to complete my trip . After having kada prashaad i came back to my stay.
Wagah Borded and Attari junction being on my wishlish , I couldn't visit.
I got busy getting my bike checked up for clearing some minor doubts i felt . Here , I met one of the senior riders from Amritsar. Mr. Malvinder Pal singh , he has done several trips to Ladakh . He guided from basics to majors , everything i had to take care about. His suggestions , blessings and gifted choclates helped me throughout the ride. Thankyou so much sir.
Ended my day planning about futher steps.
Day 2 -amritsar to shrinagar(4.30 am to 4.30 pm){19th september}
Left Amritsar at 4.30.
Early morning winds at Pathankot. i could felt like i was approaching towards hills.
Entering into the thirst state , things were changing. Had breakfast at Jammu.
Next after clicks at jammu highway.
Crossed 4 tunnels and i could feel Kashmir.
Kashmir valley, truly known as "Paradise on earth".
I continuously rode till .took rest ..had lunch while in conversation with soldiers.
Started quick as it was already had to cover much distance and was clueless about further roads and stay for the day.
Got stuck in a traffic jam before shrinagar.
So i got more time to observe everything.Noticed line of factories making bats and wooden items.
Pretty girls , kasmere bouys, pristine lakes and flower gardens .
It was 4.30 pm.. and 12 hours of ride was full of adventure and i was too tired..
As i was told to be a bit more alert and cautious here i planned to contact my seniors for guidance if i couldn't find a satisfying stay and staff. Srinagar is said to have curfew very offen which creates chaos.
Just then as i saw Delhi dhaba .i got kind of homely feeling. i breaked and walked in.
I was welcomed warmly as a lady rider from their native place was riding all the way..
I was told about staying at a house boat but dropped the plan.
Safely checked in to Punjab hotel next to it.
So yeah" Delhi Dhaba and punjab hotel in jammu and kashmir".. 3 states by now..
While walking next to dal lake, natural beauty really took me to awe. Floating gardens and lovely house boats on the picturesque of Dal lake.
I would have loved the place more if i was a non-vegeterian.
Kebabs and mutton everywhere.
Day ended with kheer and kulfi after delicous dinner at Delhi dhaba.
And yes for me good food leads to good vibes..
And adding to my happiness my bike was parked safely in the reception hall..
Day 3 - srinagar to Lamayuru(6 a.m. to 4 p.m){20th september}
Woke up at 5.30, did all the packing with some morning motivation as i had to cross zozilla pass and from past stories it seemed to me like "Godzilla". Neway , gathering all courage I started, had not-so-good breakfast at sonmarg and started for zozilla .
Weather conditions being favourable , had no issues.
Full off-roading, a bit risky but pure fun.
Stood on the footpegs and to flaunt the beginner biker in me.. crossed it like a pro.
And patted myself.
Next i spotted a delhi no. Car and people taking pictures..
Halted for some awaited picture session and talk session.
Then started towards Drass and Kargil war memorial..
Oh but hold on..
Before reaching drass something happened..
After zozilla i was stopped at a check post for making entry.
I walked some 50 mts from the road side where i parked my bike to write in my details..
And next minute when i was in between conversation with the authorities theree was a sudden rush of wind.
To my amazement, my bike fell(side stand got 90 degree bent and tank top fell off with half litre of fuel and twisted clutch lever.
Before i could act, soldiers ran and picked my bike..
Touch wood everything else was fine .As i was told 25 KMS ahead at drass, i managed to find a welder to fix the stand and later had no issues regarding it. Though i got late by 1.5 hours because of it..
Then the Kargil war memorial.. read so much about it in history books. Interacted with soldiers and tourists . Clicked pictures and felt proud going through the Hall of fame.
After bad roads ahead Kargil tried to make it to leh but unluckily had to stop at Lamayuru for the day.
Lodged in Moonland Hotel.
Just 120 KMS left to Leh and yeah i was quite near to my dream destination.
Day 4 - Lamayuru to Leh (8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m.){21st september}
Started at 8. 30 as i had just 120 kms to cover to leach leh.
Heard so much about Moonland but frankly,"akele kuch samajh hi nai aaya".
After dis there were smooth roads ,easily cruising at 120,covered 100 kms and reached Patthar Sahib Gurudwara.
I was warmly welcomed by volunteers and care takers.
As my ride up till then was great ,by gods grace. Words of thank had to be conveyed.
In between beutiful converstion ,.chai and snacks were being served one after the other.
I left the place with positive energy, more power , encouragement and blessings.
Then finally reached Leh. I got in contact to a senior rider shashank tiwari from chattisgarh. This was his 9th ride to leh on his ninja 650 and he was leaving Leh the very next day for Delhi.
He was a great companion for the day. We went to hall of fame watched kargil war documentary. Heart felt respect for the mighty soldiers.
"ae mere watan ke logon.. zara yaad karo kurbaani"..
He was a real help as i was craving for some pictures.
Next comes full paisa vasool adventure land.
A small army drill setup for tourists. It was pure fun as i am always up for such games.
Successfully completed the drill, other dan shooting and archery. I would rather kill a terrorist by throwing stones.
Later , got my bike checked up, ordered my customised t.shirt , got some tibetan prayer flags. Followed by tasty supper at chaska maska with Shashank sir, taking guidance for further points to be noted and precautions to be taken.
After some rest and dinner at my hotel .
Ended my day with delicious brownies and choclate balls at bon apetite bakery. Total bliss it was.
Day 5 -Leh to Nubra valley( 10.30 to 5 p.m.){22nd september}
This morning was not so happening as it was drizzling at 9 in the morning.
I was sure about lower tempreatures and rainfall at khardungla and further.
Left most of my luggage at hotel at Khardungla and packed bags with essentials like spares, tool kit, pucnture kit pump ,chain lube ,warm clothes and medicine box.
Started with faith in myself and trust in the almighty.
Its a bikers dream to reach k-top, worlds highest motorable road in the world.
Just after completing a stretch of 15 kms it started raining. Next i stopped, got in my raincoat , covered my tankbag and moved. There met a troop of bikers from Spain and Belgium..
Slowly and gradually weather condition were getting worse , but i was sure of not quitting. Roads were getting worse, hands and feet were already numb. Before some 10 kms before south pullu (check post before Khardungla) my bike got stuck on a big stone and i fumbled. I got down, picked up my bike and managed to get it back on the road. Just then a jeep driver looking to all this , came out to talk to me and warned about further roads, strictly insisted on going back to this i responded with smile and said "yaha tak aae hai to khardungla to jaenge" he wished me luck and i moved on.
Reached south pullu, purchased 2 forms. To be filled and submitted -one at south pullu and other at north pullu after Khardungla, if one was proceeding further towards Nubra.
After doing the needfull. As gradually i was proceeding further , my bike stopped with a sudden jerk. I tried twice but felt no power , no acceleration and no movement. I got blank for a second but i was then i was sure about the reason being the air flow and what i had to do was to take out the air filter.(As guided by senior rider and a great friend saif siddiqui. )
Quickly took out my tool kit from the tank bag.Untied the luggage, took out the bike seats , opened some screws , took out the filter then placed everything back to position.
After accelerating thrice and simultaneous prayers.. Hurray! Yes it started..(and that moment .. I was like I love myself)
While moving ahead it was raining but then something solid started hitting my helmet visor.
And as i expected it was snow flakes.
1st time in my life i was riding in such a weather condition
D.K.Pundit sir earlier quoted "if you are lucky enough,, u'll get snow"
and yeah i got lucky as just a day before there was not a single drop of rain or snow and sky was all clear with sunshine..
Finally i made it to khardungla. This young soul chasing her quest to faith made it to what she always dreamt off. I really wanted to shout out loud.
For a second i had tears and i was full of joy. Dreams come true , only if we keep chasing them.
There was no one else to share the real happiness other than pinglu (my soft toy and my companion to every long bike rides).
After clicking a lot of pictures with my bike , pinglu and tourists i was filled with more energy and enthusiasm. Had tean and coffee , migled with the soldiers . Then next since other riders were also moving towards Nubra i decided to move ahead without a second thought , which was not so sensible . As i was told road condition were fine .. but hold on what about the weather conditions.
Neway, in haste I moved on as I had a craving to see sand dunes and double humped camels in mid of himalyas.
Just after few kms, a pathetic slush of 100 kms made me hault. Took deep breath and started gradually moving through it . Halted again as i was sure to fumble so i waved towards the guy who already helped other bikers . He was amazed to see me there and with a sweet gesture he pushed and balanced my bike through the slush.
My words were surely not enough to thank him.
Continuous rainfall and lower tempreatures . It was getting damn tough but had to keep moving.
After not so easy 12kms crossed Khardung village , halted at a tent on the right for some refreshment .
There i met these 6 special people. they all were using some sign language to communicate. Another minute , one girl among them told me through actions that I was so strong to do such things.
As i looked confused for quite some time. She told me that they cant hear neither they can speak. Next second, my heart was aching and tears rolled down my cheeks.
i was like"Hate u god, why you so unfair". theese girls hugged me tight and told me it was all right.
Indeed beautiful people with beautiful smiles and beautiful hearts,..
Exchanged no.s with couple of them. Presently in contact with Monica and Bharat(two among them). They are from delhi and I'm surely going to meet them again.
After bidding goodbyes moved towards Diskit praying god to bless them with all the strength they needed.
On the way i met Srikant Peri (from Hyderabad) and Unni Krishnan(from Pune) together on a royal Enfield who were returning from Spangmik. Credits to them for some of my superb pictures. Moved ahead together towards their stay. After some chit - chat. reached "sand dunes tent" removed luggage of the bike. While talking to these bikers and native people had coffee. It was 6.30 and rains were on, then to my disappointment i was told that i wont be able to see camels because of rains. That moment i was regretting my decision of moving further to Nubra. I could have returned from k-top.
Later had dinner and quickly moved in my tent.
And next, before going to sleep i was really scared about riding in the snow the next day.
I was loosing all strength and was feeling low. My body was aching, had swollen fingers, scary night and everything went negative.
Luckily i was using mtnl postpaid, it worked almost everywhere.
Thanks to my best friends Kunal sindhi and Saif Siddiqui for words of encouragement. they really cheered me up. Motivated me and i was back to normal.
i went off to sleep after prayers.
Day 6-Nubra valley to Leh( 9.30 a.m. to 7.p.m.){23rd september}
Wednesday morning after some arrangements i was silent at breakfast ,not like other mornings.
And according to my past experiences,
Wednesday is like dooms day to me. Something worst had to happen.
Neway, I had the kiddy smile when i heard " you might find camel as it is not raining for now"
Packed up fast and left by 9.30. I joined Peri and Unni.
And then camels... No more regrets and no more bad vibes.
A short ride on champa(as i was shouting out loud.. champa u r my another ride on the trip.. and she replied hell yeah)
Hugged them,kissed them. Took selfies and love just flew , happiness transferred and stayed.
As i promised myself to talk in limits and not irritate people i meet, I did so.
When we were about to start , we were enquired if roads were Closed . We had no clue but then we ourselves were puzzled . What if dey were closed ??.. neway we proceeded.
And yes roads were closed at North pullu. Snow was being removed off the roads.
We had to wait. Met a guy from pune naked wolves who was there with his mum. And was never given the permission to ride to such places. He was really happy to see me on such roads. Nice chit chat together while waiting for roads to get open. We were getting late ,dere was no sun and snow on the roads. My nerves were already freezing.
After waiting for more than couple of hours roads got open. Firstly, vehicles with snow chains were allowed. Then normal ones and then the motorcycles. Just before leaving made a call to Saif for some tips to handle my bike in snow .
Gradually making way and fighting all odds. Just 5 more KMS before k-top , had to halt because roads were blocked with line of vehicles.. It was really hard for cars and trolleys to move.
And gradually bullets were making their way. I was already feeling dizzy. Sipped ORS , some inner motivation and moved. It was impossible to move as my feets dont touch the ground and was getting impossible to ride with such stock tyres. At times got off my bike and pulled hard. Continuous snow fall and tough day. No matter what, had to make it all by myself. At times felt like giving up and cry out loud but no way. Maybe slow but for sure i was not going to give up. 3 more KMS to the top. Battery in me was about to die. I almost skidded twice, popped one diamox and energy bars. Asked for some help and line of help made my way . And I was in love with these generous pahadi people .
As truly said "Beautiful people stay in beautiful places".
Did'nt stop at the top.
Kept moving , as i expected proceeding downwards would be better but no. After some halts , with all concentration moved gradually. And then something worst happened , skidded bad. Tried to manage but went straight into snow on the inner side, "Hell yeah , i"m alive" i told myself. Got up after a minute.. people from the jeep just behind me already picked my bike.. clutch break was half broke . No issues as i was not going to use them much anyway. Later , after some 4 KMS , everything was much better. Finally, made my way to my hotel.
To sum up the day .I had minor heart attacks, saw the worst of my biker life , but happy faces of hotel staff- Chachuraam Suresh and Ravi really made me smile again.
After i dipped my hands and legs in warm water and 3 coffees one after the other i was back to alive.
Body ache .. head ache.. tooth ache.. dry face.. roasted nose.. what more a biker asks for.
After heavy dinner and choclates and talking to friends on phone got in my bed. I had no clue when i was off to sleep.
Day 7 - Leh {24th September}
Next place to head towards was Pangong, but a day before heavy snowfall had blocked the roads. Roads were open but I was not in good enough condition to ride that very day.
So i decided to rest for the day and take it easy. After relaxing and good food at redenzvous german bakery.
Moved around the himalyan city ,replaced the break lever as I carried it as a spare, got my bike properly serviced and lastly got my costumised tee .
A night before , planned everything as no matter what I had to start for Pangong the very next day.
Day 8 – Leh to Spangmik( 10.30 a.m. to 5 p.m){25th september}
Beautiful rainbow wished me a happy morning. There was sunshine, quickly had breakfast and packed up everything. Bidding goodbyes to everyone there and promising to visit again the next year , I proceeded towards Changla.
After filling up my tank and getting some cash from the atm I proceeded. After some 10 kms I crossed thiskey monastery. Just then I took a u turn and rode in.
As I reached Karu(40 kms from leh) I saw a biker with Andhra no. karizma waving towards me. He was Khiyar Pasha riding with his dad(M.M.Pasha). This father son duo recently did Kanyakumari to Kashmir . It was great meeting them , we chatted for a while and I asked for M.M. sir's blessings . This meet added to my happiness and my wish to also ride with my dad or maybe my kids.tongue emoticon
Weather conditions , roads everything was fine in the start. Later roads got worst but i was happy offroading because I already made way through the worst. And this day god was treating me well.
Took breaks where I saw tourists. I asked them to take pictures to which they happily agreed. People really got amazed for once but then wished me and encouraged me.
After some 40 km bad stretch reached changla baba.
Just took some quick pictures and selfies and moved forward as I wanted to see Pangong before sunset.
And then I saw my Nubra buddies Unni and Peri who were returning. They waved me and moved.
And then following him I met Deepak Gupta sir well known as Spiti Baba(he is one of the hardcore riders from my group Free Souls Rider). I was so cheered up to meet someone I already know on a solo tri
Chatted for a while, told him about the ride up till then and clicked pictures. Bidding goodbye we moved towards our destinations.
Took a break at tang-se army camp . They served me with black tea. Conversated for a while , they really praised me and saluted me for what I was doing. That proud moment, and i felt so strong. Proceeded with more courage .
Further I stopped at a shop for some refreshment. People I met were really curious to talk to me and I was always up for longer conversation. And that really added to my happiness.
Later as I reached Pangong I could feel the heaven. That blue water was something I craved to see since saw "3 idiots" and personally other side of me craved for a friend or someone whom I love and we could talk for hours sitting on its banks.
Neway , coming back to reality i parked my bike on one side. Had some snacks and made phone calls to some of my closed ones. Some of them were really worried , so told them about my beautiful ride and shared my happiness.
Moved towards Spangmik , 7 km ahead Pangong for a good stay, as it already started chilling. As I moved out to take some picture with the lake I met Prince Thakur and Vipin from Mandi. Amazing guys I later made great friends with.
Prince clicked some amazing pictures from his DSLR .
And later at dinner he shared them with me. We planned to continue together the next morning towards pang.
Day 9 – Spangmik to Pang(8.30 a.m. to 6.30){26th September}
Morning at Spangmik and I was not feeling well. Caught cold and bad headache was really irritating. As I was empty stomach and mom says "Never take medicine empty stomach" so i did not . We(me , Prince and Vipin ) got ready to leave by 8.30 and planned to have breakfast at Karu.
Starting my return journey from god's own land , I was full of mixed emotions. Delhi was just 1200 kms.
Later as it was chilling I halted for getting in my raincoat (no, it was not raining) while prince took great pictures.
But hats-off to these pahadi guys, they were riding without gloves.
Later we halted at Tangtse, my condition was getting worse. I even asked them to proceed. But then these guys insisted on moving together. After some rest, had protein bars, had black tea and popped in diamox . Some positive encouragement from prince worked a lot.
Gradually made it to Karu. I was doing fine by now. I guess it was altitude sickness. Had breakfast cum lunch, filled tanks and 2 extra bottles each of 2.5 ltrs(next petrol pump was 360 kms ahead at Tandi)
Some jugad and my perol cans were perfectly fitted in .
Quick bike check up and we left Karu (it was already 3)and approx 170 kms to cover.kept moving then took halt at Rumtse.
Next while riding towards Tanglangla, falling tempreatures were really unbearable. Had no guts to even stop and even take a picture. it was already 4.30 when Moore plains started. A break was desperately needed. Stopped at a tent on the left , i was shivering and after 5 minutes of sitting near the bonfire took out my helmet and had 3 cups of tea. Then i was doing fine as i had people to talk to and after riding what I love is chattering. Neway ,while crossing moore plains in dark , falling tempreature . I really felt things were getting haunted and eerie. Around 6 , full moon really scared me. I was just riding counting every km to Pang. Last 5 kms were really challenging, some bad noise from my bike was already disturbing me. But kept moving and praying .
I was feeling like a kid who got lost in some abandoned and lonely planet.
Finally reached Pang , got in a tent. Hot water and tea and sigh of relief.
Perfect dinner and then warm stay . Another hard riding day ended with smile on my face and faith in heart.
Day 10 –Pang to Keylong( 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.){27th September}
Bright sunshine at 9 woke me up and filled me with good vibes.
After tasty parathe at breakfast started towards Sarchu.
Bad road stretches one after the other but gradually me and my bike passed all hurdles.
Clicked pictures at a view point and strongly moving through landslides , made way to Sarchu.
There were no major issues up till den. Filled my tank with extra petrol I had.
Shared experience with 2 bikers from Germany and they were riding bullets really well.
Clear sky and better roads, reached Baralachla , clicked pictures and proceeded. Met cyclists coming from jespa. Halted before zing zing bar for some tea and changing socks(as shoes got wet at a water crossing before Baralachla)
There i met Nosh Mistry and his dad from Pune. Nosh’s bike was a bit modified dirt bike and his dad was riding a Honda unicorn.
"The another father son duo I met on the ride"
We clicked pictures, shared views about our bikes. They praised for what I was doing and blessed me for future expeditions. Their words were really motivating.
Gradually and finally after crossing small water crossings reached Darcha and then Keylong.
stayed at Sumrila guest house.
Day 11 -Keylong to Mandi (10.30 a.m. – 6 p.m.){28th September}
Last 2 days of my trip and I was feeling good. One more pass and after crossing so many passes it assumed to be like others. Started for Rohtang pass after breakfast at Tandi .
Roads were pretty good but last 15 kms towards Rohtang top were really bad.
Worst was 1.5 km of slush. After a deep breath moved slowly, my tyres really got stuck at times. Even truck drivers helped but it was really getting worst for me. Then Vipin came back running for help . He pushed my bike and balanced it .Later as he suggested, we switched our bikes. I rode his fz 150 for left over 500 mtrs of bad slush. Finally made way and came back to our bikes.
After lunch at Manali and a walk through the famous mall road . Planned to stay at Mandi for the day . Had dinner at dominos Mandi with these buddies . Said goodbyes with the promise to meet again and they are special friends I made on my solo journey.
Day 12 -Mandi to New Delhi ( 7.30 a.m. – 4.30 p.m){ 29th September}
Last morning of my trip. Took everything easy .Did all the packing casually and mixed emotions were flowing in me.
Started at 8 and moving trough bad roads after Bilaspur reached Kiratpur. Took halts for breakfast and later for redbull as it was uneasy to ride in high tempreature after days of riding in low tempreature. After making my way struggling through line of trucks and vehicles reached Chandigarh. Had lunch and then direct stretch to home .
Have nothing more to say. I was never so confident about successfully completing the ride . But some courage, pinch of craziness, faith in almighty and love for my bike made it happen. And real thanks to my rider buddies(Saif Siddiqui, Kunal Sindhi , Bharat Chopra , Kuldeep Singh). My mentor Mr. Ajay Dalal.Thanks to my mechanic. Thankyou everyone for supporting me
I relived every moment
